2009 Sheldon Wines, Tawny Port “Chapters” Fortified Wine, California.
The second chapter of the Sheldon’s two series of Tawny Port, this 2009, which was in barrel 14 years, is definitely one of my favorite California fortified wines with its deep amber hued smooth layering of golden, honey coated pecans, quince paste, Mission fig, orange marmalade, dried herbs, candied pineapple and subtle savory tones. No overt cloying sweetness to be found here, making it very true with classic Tawny flavors and style, it goes great as dessert sipper with cheeses and nuts, biscotti and delicate tarts. This version of Sheldon’s Tawny, the 2009, bookends the tasty original 2003 bottling, which I was able to try on many occasions, and was crafted from organic grapes, including two parts, with equal parts Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Graciano from the Lodi region, which was fortified by neutral grape spirit (Brandy) that brought the ABV to 19.5% and matured in a well used French oak barrel. Not much of this 2009 Sheldon Tawny is available and almost exclusively direct through their website, so I highly recommend fans of Port chase down this very unique and delicious bottle.

Sheldon Wines, which was founded in 2003, by the husband and wife team of Tobe and Dylan Sheldon, started making wine in the Santa Lucia Highlands and ended up in Santa Rosa area, before putting things on hold after the 2022 vintage. Dylan was always a Grenache freak and found his style in lower alcohol versions, and they say they are well studied in Grenache, having helped make it in Australia and France before leading the way in a new cool climate style here in California, first with bottlings coming from Santa Ynez and the central coast, then up in the cold pockets of Sonoma County. Besides Grenache, Dylan became America’s champion of Graciano, the rare Rioja grape, which he crafted into some of my favorite bottlings of this varietal, and it also became a component of his Tawny Port wines, as seen here. I have been a friend and fan to Sheldon Wines for almost as long as I’ve been in the wine business and I love the full collection here, especially the mentioned Grenache, as well as the Sonoma County Graciano, the sparkling Tempranillo Rosé, the Napa Valley field blend, that has Petite Sirah and interplanted Cabernet Sauvignon and more, so please check them them out.
($65 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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