2023 Weingut August Kesseler, R Riesling Qualitätswein, Rheingau, Germany.
My first visit to the Rhein region of Germany included a wondrous hike through the Niederwald forrest from Rüdesheim to Assmanshausen and finally up the magically beautiful Höllenberg vineyard, and I’ll never forget that day. This wine, slightly off dry, Kabinett level Riesling from August Kesseler rinds of that experience with its terroir dimension and purity, showing crisp apple, peach, quince and lime fruits, hints of flinty stones, a ouch honey, tea spices and almost paste. August Kesseler’s “R” Riesling comes from a combination of vineyards in Rüdesheim, Geisenheim and Erbach and the sites used are diverse and are characterized by slate, Taunus quarzite, loess and loam soils with some vines on steep slopes and some in the widest part of the Rhein River. This adds up to loads of complexity and give this wine its regional flare, capturing ripe flavors, mineral intensity and an easy charm that makes it great with a wide range of cuisine choices from spicy Asian food to cured meats and or poultry dishes, to name a few. Each parcel is vinified separately. Shortly before bottling the winery selects the lots and they assemble the final R cuvée. I first met Auggie (Austust Kesseler) in the early 2000s in Carmel, California, after that I knew I had to visit the Rheingau, which I did twice!
It’s quite something that when August Kesseler took over his parent’s establishment founded in 1924, with an old cellar in Assmannshausen that dates back to 1972, he was but only 19 years old! As the winery notes, back then, they did mainly bulk wine that was produced from an area covered that was less than 2,5 Hectares, but under August’s guidance the estate has become one of the flagship estates in the Rheingau region and the present day plantings is now close to 32,5 Hectares. These sites includes some of the best and most prestigious cru Rheingau sites, such as Assmannshäuser Höllenberg, one of Germany’s greatest Pinot Noir vineyards, Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg, Lorchhäuser Seligmacher, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen and, as the winery reminds me, many more too. Currently, Kesseler produces 60 % Riesling and 40% Pinot Noir and are a member of the VDP and the German Barrique-Forum. Kesseler says Max Himstedtis the estate’s most experienced and ambitious winemaker has pushed forward the production of word class wines here. August Kesseler and Max Himstedt have now also been joined by another ambitious and young oenologist, Simon Batarseh, who they hope takes them even higher. Visiting the Rheingau should include August Kesseler, Leitz, Spreitzer and Künstler to name a few, and this wine is a great way to start exploring the region of Germany!
($18 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive