2022 Domaine Boehler, Molse Blanc, Grand Vin de Molsheim, Vin d’Alsace, France.
The traditional, natural and independent minded Domaine Boehler’s unique Alsace white blend is a terroir expression, rather than a classic varietal wine, and highlights the new creative spirit in the region, which has gone back in time to produce something new, given this Molse Blanc a more intriguing and complex personality. This nicely aromatic, spicy floral and light gold/yellow hued 2022 vintage is delightfully dry, fresh and mineral driven on the palate with a fine medium body that shows off preserved lemon, white peach, quince, melon and crisp green apple fruits, along with hints of clove, almond paste, snappy herbs, wet flint, lychee and verbena notes. The addition of some Gewürztraminer and Muscat comes through on the nose, but the wine is very much a dry and steely detailed example and the textured mouth feel and leesy note add a presence too, the Pinot Gris, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc and Riesling provides the zest, structure and nobility here, making for a stylishly pure Vin d’Alsace that goes lovely with a range of cuisine choices. The mixed varietal wines of Alsace are really having their moment again, and I highly recommend checking them out throughout the price ranges from the value priced Hugel “Gentil” to Weinbach and Deiss, which are higher end gems, as well as this one.
The Domaine Boehler Molse Blanc is a naturally fermented white wine coming from grapes, organically farmed in mainly the commune of Molsheim, hence the name, and set on a combination of marl, clay, stony, sandy and limestone soils that along with the dry Continental climate, influences the depth of flavors. This wine is a blend of six varietals, which include Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Gewürztraminer and Riesling, of which the percentages change slightly from year to year to form the best wine. Domaine Boehler, from what I have gathered is an old school estate that is just on its third generation producing under its own label, instead of supplying grapes to the bigger domaines or co-ops and has embraced the more modern organic and natural wine movement, since it was always in their code to do things that way, regardless of trends. The Grand Vin de Molsheim “Molse Blanc” is usually fermented and then sur lie aged in tank, using ripe berries, and finishes close to 14% natural alcohol, though this bottle was delightfully balanced and vibrant in the glass, and I would think it would age nicely for another 5 to 7 years. The Molse Blanc goes well with pâte, soft cheeses, poultry, cured ham and fish, so give it a go if you happen to see it at a store. These Boehler wines are not always easy finds, but this one impressed enough to make me want to chase another few bottles down!
($35 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive