2022 Weingut Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Riesling Spatlese, Urziger Wurzgarten, Mosel Germany.
The 2022 Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese Riesling is glistening bright pale gold in the glass and shows off classic lime blossom, green apple, white peach, tangy apricot and pineapple fruits, along with the slate mineral core and spicy events that make this vineyard so famous, as well as a rich, medium sweet palate and nice balancing acidity. As I’ve mentioned in my prior reviews, this wine comes from steep slate slopes above the Mosel, the Urziger Wurzgarten, which is one of the world’s greatest vineyards, and Robert Eymael is one of Germany’s best winemakers, and his crafts these J. J. Christoffel wines from ungrafted 100 year old Riesling vines. If there ever was a doubt about terroir these wines remove it, there is no question the place marks these wines, with that that spicy slate base, but with bright red iron rich volcanic top soil that gives the wines a burst of exotic spice and tropical flavors. All of Eymael’s vineyards, as I’ve mentioned in prior reviews, are planted 100% to Riesling with original rootstocks, which are old clones and farmed sustainable and hand tended, as required by the severely steep slopes, looking down on the Mosel, the vines hang on to.
I’ve long been a fan of the J. J. Christoffel wines and of Eymael, who also has the famed Monchhof winery, that dates back to 1177, these are some of the most exciting Rieslings every vintage for me to try and this 2022 was one of my favorites, especially as I had missed a few years recently, as the winery changed importers. For those people who have been looking for Joh. Jos. Christoffel, as I was, they are now imported by Massanois in the States, while Monchhof is brought in by The German Collection, which now makes them findable again. This wine, again, with its hints of wet flint, red spices, honey, subtle rose hips, white flowers and bitter almond notes, put on a stunning performance, and the finish is full and lively with amazing clarity and persistence, it’s hard to imagine a better young Riesling, with this much verve and character and it’s poise, balance and texture are remarkable with just the perfect amount of hedonistic creamy sweetness. This traditionally made Urziger Wurzgarten is wonderfully seductive and sensual, drink it over the next 15 to 20 years, and I also really enjoyed the 2022 Urziger Wurzgarten Trocken, which is heavenly light and crisp, but with all the terroir nuances, so don’t miss any of these Chistoffel offerings!
($28 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive