2015 Weingut Emmerich Knoll, Loibner Grüner Veltliner, Trockenbeerenauslese, Sweet Wine, Wachau, Austria.
Last up on an evening of fabulous food and wine with a lunch at Bar La Côte and dinner Bell’s Los Alamos, was this gorgeous Weingut Emmerich Knoll Loibner (vineyard) Grüner Veltliner Trockenbeerenauslese, brought along by the very generous Big Tar Wines winemaker Aaron Watty, who knew of my love for German and Austrian wines! This rarity was full evolved and golden/amber hued in the glass with beautiful fruit density and luxurious sweet layers of poached apricot, quince paste, golden fig, lemon curd and apple butter, along with hints of clove spice, crystallized ginger, dried pineapple, honeycomb and bitter almond brioche. The wine is wonderfully balanced for such a residual sugar packed dessert wine and while full in mouth feel and vinous in textural pleasure, it never feels sickly sweet and there’s some tertiary and earthy elements that add to the complexity. This was a truly special experience and this exotic Knoll TBA was sublime with both a cheese plate and the traditional dessert dishes, this wine actually elevated an already spectacular meal at Bell’s. This wine is hand individually berry picked botrytis-affected grapes in the Wachau’s steep Loiben terraces, the wine undergoes slow, cool fermentation and extended maturation in old, large oak casks and to produce such a profound wine.
The Knoll Trockenbeerenauslese orTBA is only produced in the best vintages when weather permits, when the Botrytis noble rot appears and gives the Grüner Veltliner its incredible concentration, and those luscious honeyed flavors and depth, while retaining just the right amount of acidity. As mentioned in prior reviews, Emmerich Knoll, a third generation vigneron, located in Austria’s Wachau region, in Unterloiben, west of Vienna and on the mighty Danube is one of the greatest producers in the world and one of the most iconic for crafting Austria’s signature Grüner Veltliner as well as some awesome dry Riesling. What really stands out is the purity and terroir that shine through Knoll’s wines, it is extraordinary that even his delicate Federspiel Grüner can be so complex and layered. Set on gravelly soils with orthogneiss and loess as well as river sand and alluvial deposits, Knoll’s prime vineyards are all located on the far eastern end of the Wachau gorge, this area is the warmest part of region, though still considered a cool climate, all of which contributes to the wines sense of place. While I usually splurge for the dry wines here at Knoll, the fuller bodied and off dry Grüner and Riesling offerings, as well as late harvest stuff, like this one, are magnificent wines! Again, a big thank you to Bell’s for a memorable night of fantastic dishes, and to my friend Aaron Watty for bringing this wine, along with a Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Burgundy from his own cellar to share with his colleagues.
($135+ Est. 500ml) 96 Points, grapelive