2024 Weingut Günter Steinmetz, Riesling Kabinett, Wintricher Geierslay, Mosel, Germany.
The crisp, really dry style of Kabinett, without being a trocken, but super expressive Wintricher Geierslay Riesling by Stefan Steinmetz of Weingut Günter Steinmetz in the Mosel region, drinks with a bright tension and exotic charm, showing off mineral intensity, racy lime citrus sorbet, kiwi, green melon, tart apple, spearmint and spicy tropical notes on the electric light weight palate. I’d never had a bottle to review before of these Steinmetz wines, so it was interesting to see how very unique it was, after hearing so much buzz about recent vintages here, it wasn’t exactly what I had imagined, but this Kabinett still very much impressed my senses and was wonderfully refreshing. The Wintricher Geierslay or “vulture slate” vineyard, with old and mature 65-year-old vines in a perfectly located cool side of the Mosel is one of Stefan’s signature plots, which gives the thrilling steely/flinty character from the old weathered slate here and loads of zesty acidity, along with those distinctive juicy fruit notes. I wonder how these wines will evolve and develop over 3 to 5 years, they are certainly their own creatures, especially this one, but people I really respect tell me they are the real deal and should be part of any Riesling lovers rotation, and I’m glad I bought a few bottles to follow over time. Steinmetz believes native yeasts are the only true way to deliver terroir driven wines and he notes they benefit from extended aging, with some offering seeing extended lees contact and barrel time, while this one saw just about nine months in tank.
Since 1999, Stefan Steinmetz, from what I have gathered so far, has run this fifth generation winery where his family has tended vines in the Mosel since the early 1900s, and crafts wines that pays tribute to his lineage here, while also having truly elevating them in quality to be amongst the best in the region. Based in Brauneberger, Steinmetz and his wife Sammie work their exceedingly steep vineyard parcels that are set on the classic Devonian slate soils, which give these wines their soul. Stefan says he, out of respect for their traditions, the winery focuses on sustainable viticulture and the winegrowing is done in harmony with nature. In the vineyards, most everything is done by hand with grape varieties such as Riesling, obviously and Pinot Noir are allowed to show off their sense of place to the maximum effect possible. Some Riesling fans have said that the Steinmetz wines are less Mosel like and more Saar like in style, more Lauer than Loosen, which maybe I can see here, with this drier style Kabinett. Honestly, I could have easily believed this tangy grapefruit and pineapple laced wine was completely dry, it was mouth watering and eye popping throughout and lingered with grippy extract and a zesty tart finish. Steinmetz has a deep collection of prime plots, with his Brauneberger Juffer and Dhroner Hofberg being the big prizes here, but harder to find. The latest set of Steinmetz offerings are quite rare, pricy and saw huge point scores prior to their release, so they won’t all be easy gets, but while my own thoughts are more reserved, more wait and see, they are worth keeping an eye out for.
($48 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive