1999 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge, Rhone Valley, France.
I’ve always loved this vintage of VT, it was a sleeper, not hyped up like 2000 or the classic 1998, but for me a better more interesting wine, and now it is truly stunning with great detail and life. Tasted in a mini vertical between the 1998 and 2000 vintages, the 1999 shines with firm structure, lift and vivid flavors, it seems darker in profile with more spice and tannin than the other two wines, which I say are still drinking great as well, though I really am seduced by the ’99 and wish I had some in my own cellar. The lively and firm nature of the 1999 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe shows in it’s intensity and for me adds that energy and verve I look for in a fine Chateauneuf du Pape, this wine has it all, fruit, depth, vigor and length. The nose is mineral toned with earth, spice, wild herbs and dark berries leading the way to the palate which shows baked cherry, poached plum, minty herbs, pepper, meat and hints of boysenberry, bramble, kirsch and anise with a stony essence. The tannins haven’t melted away, but over all this fantastic Chateauneuf du Pape is pure hedonism in the glass, and for me it is a wonderful point to drink, pop it if you have it to see, but I love it now, this is pure class and a very underrated vintage.
($N/A) 95 Points, grapelive
