I was one of many that happily poured into the “Pinot Paradise” tasting put on by the Santa Cruz Mountains Growers and Vintners Association. The tasting was to showcase the different terroirs in the region and it did provide a great insight and education into what they were and how they differed, and the range of flavors and quality amazed me. There were a bunch of sublime wines and equally plenty that failed to make the grade. This may seem at first to be disappointing, but it really makes the great wines stand out and that is what I took away from the event.
For me the usual suspect rose to the top and with only one exception the best of the Pinot Noirs from the Santa Cruz Mountains came exclusively from the Coralitos gap, especially Windy Oaks Estate, Alfaro Family Vineyards and Big Basin Vineyards who made a wonderful 2007 Pinot from fruit he got from his buddy Richard Alfaro. The only real stand out not from down that way was the remarkable 2005 & 2006 Mount Eden Estate offerings, with the 2005 taking most peoples votes, though I went for the 2006 for the prettiness and structure it had. I think among my group, the was no question that Windy Oaks Estate was the overall best of show, just ahead of the Mount Eden, with Alfaro Family Vineyards and Big Basin putting in great efforts and making strong showings.
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Bradley Brown, of Big Basin Vineyards, who is gaining cult status for his rich and intense Syrahs, showed off his Pinot loving side with two wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains. I really enjoyed both, but I must give the nod to his Alfaro Family Vineyards 2007, which will be released later in the year and available to his mailing list, so I would recommend checking out his website and don’t be shy with his Syrah offerings as they are amazing wines.
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Reviews of Alfaro Family Vineyards and Windy Oaks Estate by graplive.com
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2006 Mount Eden Estate Pinot Noir Santa Cruz Mountains.
Though the 2005 was richer and sweeter in fruit, though I love the 2006 with its lovely delicate flavors and perfect balance, making picking either a tough choice indeed, so why not get both for your different moods. This is a Pinot lover’s wine and a true to Burgundy style with silky layers and bright acidity. This Pinot shows pure and classic fruit, cherry, light raspberry and spicy plum with mineral, sage and vanilla as well. The oak is smoky and toasty, but all well focused and stays in the background. This wine should fill out and age well, but will never be a big wine or a blockbuster, so enjoy it young and drink it with food or cheese. There is some lingering berry, earth and truffle that give depth. ($45 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
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2007 Big Basin Vineyards Pinot Noir “Alfaro Family Vineyards” Santa Cruz Mountains.
This pre-release sample is all ready showing great character and depth, but I’m sure there is lots more to come from this young and intense Pinot. Bradley Brown, winemaker, sourced Richard Alfaro’s fruit to make this wine and he captures the terroir and still stamps his own style on it. He uses whole berry fermentation and a long cold soak, which adds a bit more color and tannin. This is why Bradley wants to wait to release this one, to give it time to fill out and for it to smooth out, though I liked it very much now. This Pinot has lush texture and full body with loads of fruit on the palate. The mouth feel is wonderful with red and black fruits, sweet oak shadings, mineral and briary spices all in good solid layers. I can’t wait until it has a few more months of age and I really can’t wait to get myself a few bottles! ($NA) 91-93 Points, grapelive
*Not yet released.