2009 Paolo Bea, Rosso de Veo, Umbria Rosso IGT, Sagrantino di Montefalco, Italy.
The pure and raw Sagrantino Rosso de Veo was fermented with native yeasts and raised in stainless for about a year then into used wood for about 2 years then rested a further year in bottle, and now it is here, one of the world’s most famous and iconic natural wines by Bea is a treasure to behold. The dark and opaque hue, the wild scents from the glass, hinting at the joy to be found on the palate of this intriguing wine where it reveals black cherry, blackberry, pomegranate, wild mint, crushed flowers, incense, chalky dust, porcini/earthiness, leather and salted black licorice along with blueberry skin, iron/blood, olive paste, cinnamon, dried lavender and cedar notes. The 2009 Paolo Bea Rosso de Veo is sublime and without question a continued exploration of the house style and of it’s terroir, it is a gift from nature and reflects the passion and believe of Bea and his family, it is certainly one of the most honest wines you’ll ever taste and maybe the truest form of Sagrantino available. This 2009 shows some ripe tannins, warm stony elements and enough juicy acidity to lift the fruit, there is lots of vigor, grip and extract throughout, you’ll need a good plate of rustic cuisine to bring out the best here, but there is much to celebrate and savor with it’s charm, power and layers of character. I absolutely love this wine for it’s flirty swagger, it is not afraid to be totally transparent, it is totally open, intense and like a confident woman at ease with everything she is, no need for make up or fancy clothes, utterly captivating without the need for adornments. For those that mock natural wines and go all glassy-eyed when the subject of biodynamics is brought up, this might be the wine to convert them, if not, fine, there will be a few bottles for the rest of us to enjoy. Regardless of where you stand, I for one, love all wine that is driven by the love of the land and has a sense of place, and while there are people miss using the term natural wine, and or using it as an excuse for seriously flawed wines that taste like crap, the Paolo Bea wines are very special, while not perfect and robust, these are soulful, full of energy and are as interesting and as deep as anything. These are wines that speak to the heart, beautiful, thoughtful and sensual wines that are still rooted in their humble Umbrian soils, glorious, mystical, earthy and enlightening. The drinking window will be generous for this 2009 Rosso de Veo, it will not require too much patience as pleasing as it is now, and it should drink nicely for 5 to 10 years, best from 2016 to 2022, don’t miss this rare and impressive offering from the master!
($60 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
