Grapelive Wine of the Week
By Kerry Winslow
2009 Pisoni Pinot Noir Estate, Santa Lucia Highlands.
This powerful and young Pinot Noir is going to be a classic, an age worthy red that has firm structure and focus, not the typical ultra fruity style. The new Pisoni has all the depth and dark fruit you’d expect, but it is wrapped in gripping tannins and zesty acidity, this should be great in a few years, though now it is showing a more Grand Cru youthfulness, making it a Pinot for the cellar. Jeff Pisoni, winemaker for the family estate, and son of Gary Pisoni has crafted a profound wine that could in my opinion become the best yet from this fantastic vineyard. While tight and firm, the Pisoni shows blackberry, blueberry, savory cherry and wild plum fruits with hints of truffle, stones, briar and lavender spiciness, finishing long with mouth coating tannins and subtle toasty oak leaving hints of smoke, vanilla and kirsch. This brisk Pinot will fill out and pretty up over the next few years and should drink sublime for a decade. (Tasted at Family Winemakers Tasting 8/21/11- Release in Sept. 2011)
($80 Est.) 96 Points, grapelive