2021 Cume do Avia, Arraiano Branco, Galicia, Spain.
The Cume do Avia wines come from East of Spain’s Rías Baixas, where lies the Ribeiro D.O., which is one of Spain’s most historic wine regions where they makes thrilling, natural and fresh modern low alcohol offerings, such as this delicious Arraiano Branco blend. The winery notes that both red and white wines have been made here in the Ribeiro region for nearly a thousand years, and while incredibly popular with Sommeliers and insiders, they remain under the radar to the mainstream. This bright, delicately aromatic and vibrant wine, which is light bodied and racy with a fine saline and mineral quality is a mix of 53% Treixadura, 17% Albariño, 14%, Loureira 13%, Lado and 3% Caíño Branco, all native varietals here. The palate shows off tangerine, green apple, crisp peach and green melon fruit, along with lime blossom, minty herbs, bitter almond and wet stone, making it great with sardines, clams, oysters, mussels and or Summer cuisine. This cool region really retains good acidity and the mix of clay, igneous rocks and metamorphic soils add to the mineral tones and complexity here, giving a depth of flavor, but low alcohol, with this one coming in just under 11%. This Arraiano Branco, which is a little deeper than a Vinho Verde wine from across the border in Portugal, but similar in style, was native yeast fermented and aged in stainless steel, for about 6 months, which promotes that freshness and transparency. Treixadura is very underrated grape, capable of producing steely wines on par with Premier Cru Chablis, and you can see that core here in this one, with the other grapes providing a nice background voice and complexity.
Cume do Avia, as I’ve stated in prior reviews, is one of Spain’s most interesting newer producers and led by Diego Collarte and his brother Álvaro, who both grew up in Vigo, makes some beautifully crafted terroir driven Galician wines from very close to the Portuguese border, made all from native varietals grown with organic methods. I have been following the wines of this region for more than 15 years and I’m still discovering so many intriguing new treasures that has been producing wines since pre-Roman times, and Cume do Avia is a great find, mostly known for their collection of reds, which include a mix of rare grapes such as Caiño Longo, Souson and Brancellao. Though, that said, I’m really impressed with the whites too, like this one. These Atlantic influenced wines, as this one shows, are great alternative whites for the warm days of summer ahead and is sublime with shellfish and briny sea foods, as well as soft cheeses, its salty brightness makes it compelling for those that like bone dry lighter framed wines. The vineyards, which were planted in 2008, are set on wide terraces with good exposures and inter-planted with more than a dozen indigenous grapes. Cume do Avia’s lineup is filled with low alcohol and rawly transparent offerings that have a natural feel to them, those that like other new stars from Galicia, like Laura Lorenzo, Luis Rodriguez, Guimaro and Nanclares will instantly feel comfortable with these lovely wines. I recommend Cume do Avia’s Dos Canotos Tinto, their Colleita 9 Tinto (red) and their white wines, and the Colleita 9 Branco (white) especially, along with this unique one too.
($25 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive