2017 Sheldon Wines, Vermentino, Las Brisas Vineyard, Carneros.
Sheldon’s lively and refreshing Las Brisas Vermentino is a beautiful Summer wine, but also one of substance and stylish charm with a wonderful underlying extract and textural lushness with vibrant lemon/lime, peach and crisp apple fruits leading the way in this 69 case hand-crafted white. Dylan & Tobe Sheldon, whole cluster pressed this light/medium bodied wine and fermented it in stainless steel with no malo, the grapes were from a couple of separate picks with varied brix, from 18 to 25, which allows this Vermentino to have it’s dry brisk vividness, while also feeling ripe and with a serious mouth feel. This is really dynamic stuff in the glass and impressive, it reminds me of some of the better Italian examples from the Liguria region as well as Sardinia and the Tuscan coast, but this Mediterranean  varietal is doing well in California, with Ryme Cellars also making some amazing versions as well, this is a grape to look for! Flexible and varied in style with less overt perfume, Vermentino has a real place in California, especially this example from Carneros, with the loam, sedimentary and clay soils giving nice (heightened) fruity flavors along with the cool sea breezes and cold nights keeping acidity, there is a lot sexy in this crisp white wine with a mix of citrus and stone fruits, light spice, minty tang, saline and mineral tones. Absolutely brilliant for mixed sea foods and perfect for your picnic basket, as well as quaffing along with a baguette and soft cheeses, with air there is a roundness that comes through, though it keeps an energy and pithy raciness throughout with hints of wet stones, peach pit, zesty herbs and lime adding to the bright complexity.
($25 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive

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