2019 Weingut Brundlmayer, Riesling “Terrassen” Kamptal, Austria.
The lime scented and flavored dry 2019 Riesling Terrassen showcases the best qualities of Austrian versions of this grape adding zesty kumquat, green apple, melon and almond oil notes as it opens this Brundymsyer Kamptal Riesling is mouth watering, vibrantly fresh with a burst of stony saline and tropical fruit adding complexity. The light pale gold color belies the extract and depth found in this value priced wine, this is exceptional stuff, brilliantly focused and bristles with energy. Vincent Brundlmayer makes some of Austria’s most thrilling wines, especially his Cru Gruner Veltliners and Rieslings, but he also makes one of the finest methode Champenoise Brut Rosé sparklers in Europe, along with a amazing collection of varietal wines, including his stellar and unique Cabernet Franc as well as this value priced Terrassen Dry Riesling. Weingut Brundlmayer, formerly known as Willi Brundlmayer, Vincent’s dad, who made this winery famous for quality, especially in the late nineties and to the mid 2000s, before young Vincent started speaking his own wings and took it to the next level. This Terrassen Dry Riesling is sourced from prime terraced vineyards, and mainly all organic vines, including the famed Heileigenstein and parcels in Steinmassal and Steinberg set on primary rock, loess and clay soils and mainly younger vines with an all spontaneous stainless steel fermentation and lees aging regime. The fine detailing, enticing aromatics and absolute purity of form make this dry Riesling unbelievably compelling, especially for Riesling enthusiasts!
The Kamptal, Austria’s largest growing area, is an increasingly prestigious wine district located 55 kilometers (35 miles) northwest of Vienna, near the Wachau and the Kremstal, its historic sister regions. This prime location, with the wine town of Langenlois at its heart, is filled with steep, sun baked, with meager loess based rocky soils on picturesque terraced vineyard sites that overlook the river Kamp, that flows off of the mighty Danube. These vines in Kamptal produce some of Austria’s most distinct offerings, if not some of the world’s finest white wines, especially by talented winemakers like Vincent Brundlmayer, mainly made from and most notable fabulous Grüner Veltliner as well as intense flinty Rieslings. These elevated terraces, according to the winery, consist of stonier soils that bring out fruit-driven varietal character with mineral nuances and good aging potential. The vines, as the winery continues, for this Terrassen Riesling are from the lower situated terraces grown on the fertile loess which brings out more fruit in the wines that makes them very expressive in their youth, with a more ready to go personality, which shows in this beautiful 2019 vintage. I am and have been a huge fan of this winery for a long time, and each time I have a bottle I am even more impressed, with this wine always being a wine that way over delivers for the price and that is lovely with a varied choice of cuisine from oysters to lightly spicy Asian dishes. This Terrassen Riesling is a must, but other wines in the Brundymayer lineup I recommend include the mentioned Brut Rosé, plus the Langenloiser Alte Reben (old vine) Kamptal Reserve Gruner, the Ried Zöbinger Heiligenstein Riesling (Grand Cru level) and the Extra Brut Reserve bubbly. Again this super dry, taut and lithe Riesling is simply outstanding and electric in the glass, what a bargain.
($25 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive