nv Domaine Rolet, Brut Blanc, Crémant du Jura, Sparkling Wine, Jura, France.
Very savvy buy in quality sparkling wine, the Domaine Rolet Crémant du Jura Brut Blanc delivers loads of class, crisp detail and excitement in the glass with a creamy effervescence and a dry palate of lemony citrus, a touch of peach, apple and quince fruits, plus a luxurious toasty brioche, hazelnut and mineral notes. Not as chalky as classic Champagne Blanc de Blancs, this Crémant du Jura is brilliant, leesy and distinctive, without a thing out of place, this is an everyday priced treat that you’ll want to stock up on. This all organic Brut sparkler comes from mature vines, at least 20 years old, set on gray marl at over 300 meters up and includes usually about 50% Chardonnay and a local 40% red varietal mix of Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard, along with close to 10% Savagnin, the native white grape of the Jura. Obviously there’s no skin contact and the cuvée was fermented with indigenous yeasts, with Rolet’s all stainless steel Crémant seeing a full 24 months on the yeast and a low dosage. This most recent version, certainly the best edition I’ve tried saw a slightly different cépage, with no Trousseau, it contains 57% Chardonnay, giving depth and richness, 16% Savagnin, which adds more intensity and zing, 16% Poulsard and nearly 11% Pinot Noir that helps with natural structure. The lively and steely Domaine Rolet Crémant du Jura is hand crafted in the traditional method or Methode Champenoise and is serious, but easy to just sip, also it can be enjoyed with a fuller meal or as an aperitif.
The Domaine Rolet, with vines in the Arbois and in the Côtes du Jura, began in WWII with Désiré Rolet making his first wines in 1942, but it was in 1958 when the family domaine really came into being with his four sons all deciding to join the family winery. The Domaine Rolet has become a well known property over the years and according to their importer, Skurnik Wines, with successes they began to grow and acquired some prime old vine vineyards in the appellations of Arbois and Côtes du Jura, helping further to establish themselves in this remote region. From the beginning, they realized it was all about fruit quality and the farming has been the focus, which to, Skurnik adds, that today that focus continues and the domaine is undergoing a complete conversion to 100% organic. The farming here is never easy, with their very steep-sloped vineyards this can prove quite difficult indeed, but the results are in the glass, and the latest generation, under the new leadership of Cedric Ducoté, who comes from Burgundy, Domaine Rolet is committed to excellence and I think they’ve raised the game significantly and I recommend checking out their latest efforts. Over the years, I’ve enjoyed the traditional bottlings, including the uniquely Jura style nutty Côtes du Jura Savagnin, the concentrated almost sherry like Arbois Vin Juane, 100% Savagnin also and which saw 6 years in barriques, the juicy, slightly raw Macvin du Jura, made from unfermented Chardonnay and Savagnin juice that is stalled with Marc (Brandy) and aged 48 months, as well as the delicate, ultra pale and lightly spicy Arbois Trousseau.
($26 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive