2016 Weingut A. J. Adam, Riesling Feinherb, Im Pfarrgarten, Mosel Germany.
Andreas Adam (having worked at Heymann-Löwenstein, after studying at Geisenheim) is a rising star in the middle Mosel not far from Piesport and with cru plots in Dhron, he and his sisters Barbara and Elisabeth form a youthful team crafting beautiful natural style wines using native fermentations and without additions of any kind, their latest set of 2016 continue their hot streak with delicate and finessed dry style Rieslings, though their Kabinett and Spatlese are pure joys too. Beyond the majesty Dhron and Goldtropfchen Trockens which are GG class wines, I love the value packed slightly off dry Feinherb Im Pfarrgarten, which is a absolute beauty with wonderful racy acidity and subtle generous mouth feel and classic terroir driven layers highlighting the slate soils character with flinty spice, mixed citrus and stone fruit. Perfectly balanced, the A.J. Adam Riesling Feinherb Im Pfarrgarten (the garden of the rectory) is grown on a flat parcel within the Grand Cru Dhron Hofberg of 50 years old vines that dig into blue slate (Devonian) with some clay and quartzite, it was fermented and raised in stainless showcasing it’s fresh zesty quality, it’s wonderfully easy to drink with about 10% alcohol making it a superb summer quaffer. Brilliantly light and ultra pale golden/green hued with a bouquet of lime flowers, mineral and citron/verbena lead to a brisk palate of lime, peach, passionfruit, green apple and tangy grapefruit along with wet shale, loam and minty herbs while the hint of sweetness gives texture and tropical essences rather than anything approaching cloying. This lovely Riesling finishes more crisp and snappy than you’d imagine, mouth watering and almost dusty, it lingers with a trace of rose petal, apricot and lemongrass. These 2016’s dance on the palate, they are expressive and riveting, this is a winery to follow!
($22 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
