2019 Clos de l’Ours “Milia” Blanc, Provence, France.
The Clos de L’Ours Milia Blanc is made from a fresh blend of Clairette Blanc, Rolle, better known as Vermentino and old vine Ugni Blanc and is a bright and zingy white perfect for summer days, it resembles other Provence white wines, but with a sleeker and lighter profile with vibrant stone fruit, mineral notes and crisp acidity leading the way. This wine is one of a beautiful collection of small production wines at this tiny biodynamic estate, which focuses on a set of reds made with Mourvedre, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault, similar to Bandol, while the white is more like Cassis Blanc, though without the weight or roundness, without any Marsanne in the blend. The estate’s white wine was hand picked and fermented exclusively in epoxy lined stainless steel with native yeasts and without malo-lactic conversion to promote purity and clarity, crafted from the organic and hand tended white varietals are Rolle, Ugni Blanc, and Clairette, which are grown on limestone and reddish clay based soils. This stony and zingy Provence Blanc, that opens to apricot, almond oil and tart citrus, will be fabulous with lighter cuisine, especially sea foods and is wonderful to sip on all on its own as an aperitif.
Clos de L’Our, which means “bear” after the presence of owner Michel Brotons and his drive to make world class wines, is located in Northern Provence, surrounded by beautiful forests and the estate’s vineyards are situated just south of the village of Cotignac, it is a 13-hectare property owned by that Brotons family brought not all that long ago. Importer Martine’s Wines were blown away by what they saw here and they note that some of the most well-known names in the region have quickly endorsed the Brotons’ vision and even the legendary Eloi Dürrbach of Domaine Trévallon encouraged them and sees the potential for producing outstanding wines from this site. Martine’s goes on to say, the famed oenologist Daniel Abrial (previously of Domaine Tempier and La Bastide Blanche) oversees the winemaking and assists Michel’s son Fabien as he learns to run the cellar here. Daniel Ravier, director of Domaine Tempier, recommended Daniel Abrial, after having visited the Clos de L’Ours property, his enthusiasm was a big boost to the Brotons family and they made their first vintage in 2012, which gained almost instant acclaim. I cannot wait to check out the reds, and while lean and delicate, I really enjoyed this Milia Blanc.
($35 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive