2011Fenocchio2011 Giacomo Fenocchio, Barolo DOCG “Villero” Piedmonte, Italy.
The latest Villero from Giacomo Fenocchio is a lush and full bodied expression of pure Nebbiolo, it may not be a 2010 and be a cellar queen, but it is a wonderful drinking wine that has all the right stuff, and I should think it will reward short to mid term aging with no problem, this is a Barolo with pedigree and substance. The 2011 Giacomo Fenocchio starts with beautiful details, nice floral perfume, spice, earth and mineral notes leading to a lavish palate of ripe cherry, juicy plum, raspberry and candied orange rind turning a bit more meaty on the mid palate along with soy sauce, black licorice, wild mushrooms and cedar. The thick tannins are polished and not too intrusive or drying, but add a firm control to the structure while a nice energy is maintained throughout, even though the acidity is more subtle in this warm vintage, overall this is a focused effort that manages it’s weight and forward character well. There is lots to enjoy here even young, and there is a lovely long finish that keeps pumping fruit for a very lengthy amount of seconds in the aftertaste with lingering cherry, strawberry, lavender, chalk/stone and dried roses. Mostly about red fruit and body at this stage, though no one will complain, and look for more complexity to form in the next 3 to 5 years, best from 2018 to 2022, that said, you can be totally thrilled in the nearer future as well, just decant and enjoy with rustic cuisine! This is a super impressive Barolo Villero from the Bussia in Monforte d’Alba, this is a label to follow along with G.D. Vajra, Brovia and Giovanni Rosso, especially in this vintage!
($60 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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