2014 Weingut Von Schubert Maximin Grunhauser, Riesling Sekt Brut, Mosel, Germany.
In recent years German Sekt has become some of the top bubbly you can buy, often rivaling elite Champagne for class, depth and beauty in the glass, and this Maximin Grunhaus Riesling sparkling wine certainly does, it’s an elegant and decedent example that delivers a very fine performance. The Maximin Grünhaus estate lies at the foot of a long steep south-facing slope on the left bank of the Ruwer river, about two kilometers before it joins the Mosel. The estate belongs to the Von Schubert family, who have turned this winery into one of the best in Germany and the wines here are world class, renown around the globe. The blue Devonian slate soils and steep hillsides give these wines their mineral charms, intensity and long-lived structures with the cellar employing modern techniques and ultra clean winemaking to achieve exacting terroir character and purity. The Sparkling Riesling is a dry Brut style with lovely perfume, lively fine mousse and beautiful details with searing green apple, citrus and hints of orchard fruits, hazelnut and steely vitality, this is so good, classy and lengthy. The dedication to quality runs deep here at Maximin Grunhaus, and the winery adds that depending on the requirements of the harvest, the grapes can be macerated or subjected to whole bunch pressing in a modern pneumatic press. After natural clarifying overnight via sedimentation, the musts are brought to an optimal fermentation temperature, and fermented with naturally occurring wild yeasts in classic large oak casks (Fuder casks) or small stainless steel tanks. This according to the Von Schubert’s, promotes the optimal development of mineral flavors from the slate soil and ensures the longevity of the Rieslings. Neither the must nor the finished wine are fined. In the last two years the wood for the barrels has come from the estate’s own forests, and the barrels are crafted by a local cooper. I could drink this stuff all the time, dry Riesling bubbles always seems right, I’m a fan of quite a few German sparklers, including Von Winning’s, Leitz’s, Kruger-Rumpf’s and maybe the best sparkling wine I’ve ever had, Caroline Diel’s Cuvee Mo, eight year yeast (lees) aged Brut, which is so amazing it can go head to head with vintage Krug! These are great sparkling wines, and this Maximin Grunhaus Sekt is very worthy, you should really check it out, along with their dry GG Rieslings of course!
($36 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive

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