2013 Lapierre, Morgon, Cru Beaujolais, France.
The latest Lapierre is a beauty, the non sulphur cuvee “N” is the offering Kermit Lynch sells in the US in 750ml bottles and it is an outstanding Gamay showing more vitality and charm in this vintage than I can ever remember, this is a wine not to miss. I’ve been a fan of Lapierre since the 2006 and 2007 vintages, and along with Foillard are my favorite Morgon producers, these guys take Gamay to the next level, year in and year out, though I must say the 2013 Lapierre is something very special and is my favorite vintage, even getting my nod over the famously exotic and deep 2009, but by the thinnest of margins. The 2013 is more subtle and finessed than many vintages, but still has depth and gorgeous detail, plus the finish is the best yet in my book for this cuvee, it was truly spectacular in a recent tasting, and while there can be some bottle differences, I sampled three bottles and they all were absolutely stunning. The nose is perfumed with dried violets, acacia and fresh picked plum leading to a palate of cherry, blackberry, strawberry and tart currant fruits with sweet walnut oil, cedar and snappy minty herb, pepper and light earthy notes. There is a burst of red peach, flesh and stone along with a hint of saline that adds freshness and balance plus silken tannins and a bright lift of acidity, this is an easy wine to love and it flows gracefully with superb mouth feel and life. The finish is haunting with lingering cinnamon and lavender laced plumy red fruit, the Lapierre Morgon is totally rewarding and expressive, I imagine this one gaining with another few years in bottle and being best from 2016 to 2021, but then again I would be hard pressed to wait on this baby! This is really lovely stuff, pure, natural and terroir driven with the house’s style stamped on it, not always easy to find, but well worth the search, especially this 2013.
($38 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive
