2019 Drew Family Cellars, Syrah, Perli Vineyard, Mendocino Ridge, Mendocino County.
Again, as fantastic as Drew’s Pinots are, Jason Drew’s Perli Syrah is just as desirable, and it is usually one of my favorite bottlings from this small family producer based in the western edges of the Anderson Valley, with this 2019 proving to be an elegant and compelling vintage, less meaty and gripping than most years with a vivid array of dark fruits, delicate florals, spice and mineral tones. I almost thought I made a mistake, and did a double take on the label to be sure I actually opened a Syrah and not a Pinot! Such was the graceful and bright nature found in this version of Drew’s Perli cool climate Syrah. The natural acidity and under 13% alcohol here with Drew’s Perli Syrah give this wine a lean and lighter feel on the medium bodied palate, which shows off some beautiful and silky black raspberry, tangy blueberry, damson plum and tart currant fruits, along with hints of briar, camphor, anise, peppercorns and a subtle violet toned bouquet. Definitely within keeping of pure Syrah varietal character, but this vintage is a bit more shy and less fleshy than I would have expected, though perfectly exciting, fresh and delicious with food. This year’s Perli comes across more Saint-Joseph like, rather than Cornas or Côte-Rotie, for reference in this exceptional Northern Rhône inspired wine. I love all of the Drew wines and as the estate gets more and more mature, the home grown stuff gets better and better, especially the Field Selection bottlings.
As noted here in my prior reviews, the Perli Vineyard, as Drew notes, comes from hillside vines that were planted about 20 years ago with the Syrah being the McDowell selection and the 877 clones, is 10 miles from the ocean and is perched at close to 2,200 feet above sea level on thin and steep north east facing slope. The Ornbaun soils here are a unique combination that gives this wine its soul, consisting of shale, fractured sandstone and rhyolite with some sandy loams. The McDowell selection, as Jason adds, is notable as it is the oldest field selection of Syrah in North America, brought into California to the San Jose Mission in 1880 and later planted on the McDowell Ranch in Mendocino County in 1902. This very lovely cool climate Syrah, with a nod to Cote-Rotie, is co-fermented with close to 5% Viognier in the traditional style of one of the Northern Rhone Valley’s most legendary places. The winemaking at Drew is always transparent and artisan in nature with a gentle touch to allow for a terroir driven profile with this Perli Syrah, with this 2019 noticeably less stemmy in profile than past editions, which maybe down to vintage conditions. Normally, Jason Drew, employs a 100% native yeast and 50% whole-cluster fermentation on his Perli Syrah with just the right amount of stem inclusion, but this one saw 100% whole bunches, and it was aged solely in a neutral French Oak, typically Puncheon(s), for 18 months. I also recommend Drew’s sister Syrah from the Valenti Ranch, and I am very excited for the new estate Syrah which I hear was just released to their mailing list!
($58-70 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive