2014 Weingut Knoll, Loibner Rose, Blauer Burgunder Federspiel, Wachau, Austria.
The Emmerich Knoll Rose of Pinot Noir from Austria is a lovely and austere example of super dry and mineral driven pink, I adored it’s fresh compact style and vitality. This is one of the more rare Rose wines, and I happened upon it by chance, as I was searching out the Knoll Gruner and Riesling, for which this great producer is world famous for, so finding this steely Rose was a big bonus, and I’ve grateful for Bay Grape, the cool wine bar and fine wine merchant in Oakland for carrying them, like I said this stuff is hard to find. Grown on the slopes above the Danube, down up the river from Vienna in the Wachau, the Emmerich Knoll Loibner Rose Blauer Burgunder starts with faint traces of rosewater, crushed stones and a mix of citrus leading to a palate that has some earthy tones and savory elements, this is not a fancy/fruity Rose, this tangy and crisp wine highlights it’s terroir and has the vigor you’d expect of a Knoll wine. As it opens up it reveals tart cherry, spices, grapefruit and strawberry, but still drinks with the intensity of the Knoll Gruner Veltliner, it went well with my lobster tacos and still entertained delightfully enough though the weather has turned to a very wintery feel. The Knoll Rose is very impressive and serve with a restrained and vibrant character, drink now and for the next year or so, it has plenty of acidity and guts to last, this is cool and tasty stuff.
($32 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive
