2018 Weingut Dreissigacker, Organic Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany.
Jochen Dreissigacker is one of of the rising stars of the Rheinhessen and his latest set of wines are thrilling offerings and I found his Organic Trocken absolutely delicious and full of vibrant energy and pure fruit with mineral fresh intensity. Jochen Dreissigacker entered the wine business in 2001, taking over his family estate which originally was found as far back as 1728 when it was known as the Jacob Sauer estate, and Dreissigacker has overseen changes that to him crucially needed to be made, most importantly he organic viticulture. The large, seemingly vast Rheinhessen is a unique region of Germany, highlighted by a great diversity of terroirs and varietals coving an area between the Pfalz and the Rheingau as well as bordering the Nahe, interesting it produces maybe the most wine in Germany, but has few superstars, except notably Philipp Wittmann of the fabled Wittmann Estate, one of the greatest wineries in the country and iconic Klaus-Peter Keller of Keller, who has been an inspiration to Jochen. Now Dreissigacker is poised to join Wittmann and Keller in this elite set of great winemakers and this 2018 Organic Trocken Riesling is one of the reasons why, the grapes come from the Bechtheim area, which are the oldest known sites for growing wine in the whole of the Rheinhessen set on rolling hills around this village that has shallow deposits of loess and loam, overlying a bedrock of active limestone, which is similar to some famous parts of Burgundy.
The estate is now certified Organic and there is amazing attention to detail both in the vines and in the cellar, Jochen notes, he wanted to take something good and make it truly excellent, to transform good flavor into an exciting experience, and elevate pleasant wines to an inspiring experience. Which I can clearly see in his wines, especially this excellent and value priced dry Riesling, Dreissigacker adds that he has worked with the unique mineral composition of his vineyards, the local climate and microclimate(s) and harnessed his own deep passion for winemaking and his region, putting those elements into every bottle. According to the estate, this 2018 is partly estate fruit from the Heilig Kreuz site in Bechtheim and part purchased (organic) fruit from friends and neighbors, all within the Wonnegau zone on mainly Loess and loam soils. Dreissigacker fermented this Organic Trocken Riesling in 100% stainless steel, with extended lees aging, again all in stainless, to give pure form and allow it to be as transparent as possible. Vividly peachy and bursting with racy acidity this 2018 is everything you’d want in a wine at this price with layers of tangerine, apricot, lime and a hint of green apple along with wet (chalky) stones, verbena, caraway seeds (something unique, somewhat suggested by the winery after tasting it) as well as delicate floral tones, steely mineral and a touch of tropical essences. Keep your eyes open for this one and all of the Dreissigacker wines, including their Cru Bechtheimer Riesling and their Sekt Brut Riesling!
($20-24 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive