2006 Weingut Dönnhoff, Riesling Spätlese, Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg, Nahe, Germany.
One of the last all Helmut Dönnhoff wines, before turning the the winery over to his hugely talented son Cornelius, is this golden nectar, which is a beautifully mature Spätlese from a difficult year and shows just how good this producer is and how good the terroir here in the Nahe is! Young or well aged, these Dönnhoff wines are always treats for which I am always grateful for, especially when they are surprises, and this Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Spätlese was a perfect way to start countdown to Riesling’s birthday on March 13, when it turns a spritely 590 years old. It’s also only a few days from my own birthday, which usually also involves celebrating this grape. The 2006 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg, which is a deep golden/amber in the glass, has a rich palate of apricot compote, quince jam, lemon marmalade, lychee, honeyed apple and dried pineapple fruits and the sweetness has tamed significantly and it is coming nicely into full balance and in a lovely window, with hints of clove, wet stone, smoky mineral, petrol fumes, a mix of spices, bitter almond, rosewater and chamomile. Typically the Dönnhoff Spätlese offerings are done exclusively in stainless steel with between 6 to 9 months of lees contact, allowing for distinctive elements from each vineyard to shine through and they do develop wonderfully in the bottle for those that are patient. Still very lively with a good vein of acidity, this 2006 should go a bit more, but is complex and texturally rewarding right now. I was lucky enough to taste through some of the 2023s and they are looking like brilliant vintage to stock up on, and while the dry efforts, especially the GGs due out this fall, are sublime, don’t forget to grab some of the sweeter wines. This bottling sometimes gets released as a cellar aged “R” or Reserve, currently available in the 2018 vintage, and is one to look for, along with the classic Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese, Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese and my usual favorite Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese.
The VDP Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg is set on complex mineral rich, volcanic igneous roc kor porphyry soils and is one of Dönnhoff’s most prized vineyards, it is capable of sublime dry and or sweet wines, and in this class a beautiful maturing Spätlese. Cornelius Dönnhoff, who took over from his dad Helmut in 2007 or so, runs the estate with precision and has become one of Germany’s best winemakers. To preserve laser-like focus and clarity in the wines, the grapes are pressed as soon as possible, almost always within a couple of hours of harvest, with each parcel farmed to produce the purest expression of the site. Cornelius ferments both in wood and tank, using traditional German casks, like 1200L stückfass and 2400L doppelstück, as well as stainless steel, all with spontaneous yeasts employed. Donnhoff’s cellar, as Riesling guru Terry Theise was first to tell me, is unique in its capacity to hold all of its production entirely in stainless steel or in cask, allowing for the ideal élevage for any wine at any point during a vintage. The Dönnhoff’s are responsible stewards of the environment and use organic methods in the vineyards, and although the Nahe is a dry region, dry farms the vineyards to encourage deep rooted vines. The winery adds that the soil is covered with organic material like straw and compost to preserve water and to avoid evaporation and erosion in the heavy rains that can hit this region and its steep slopes. Again I’m looking forward to writing more about the current releases here at Dönnhoff, which were fabulous, to celebrate Riesling’s upcoming birthday, so watch this space over the course of the next four weeks or so. Wines of Germany (part of the German Wine Institute) reminded me, Riesling, from its first written mention in Germany’s Rheingau region in 1435 to its continued reign as one of the most loved and versatile white wines, Riesling has proven that it’s not just a wine for history books—but one that fits every modern palate, too. Whether you love it dry, sweet or somewhere in between, there’s a German Riesling, especially here at Dönnhoff, that’s perfect for any wine enthusiast!
($55 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive