2022 Domaine Bechtold, Pinot Gris “Nef des Folles” Vin d’Alsace, France.
Alsace has seen some changes and there has even been a number of wineries exploring skin maceration whites, and one that really caught my attention for complexity and balance was this brilliant Bechtold version with a lovely cooper/pink hue in the glass and a dry vibrant palate. This “Nef des Folles” (Pinot Gris), which translates to “the nave of the mad” an ode to this unique skin contact and no sulfur natural and organic wine, is a compelling effort with bright citrus, red apple, strawberry and quince fruits, a subtle savory tone, a light touch of spice, saline, minty herbs, florals, wet stone and delicate orange tea notes. The Pinot Gris grapes, according to the winery, come from the Obere Hund vineyard and are macerated for twelve days on its skins and aged in a single old foudre, making for more textural pleasure, while retaining crisp mineral detailing, as seen here. With air you get more leesy elements and a long finish, this wine will show its best with food, especially soft cheeses and ham dishes.
The Domaine Bechtold, with some impressive vineyard sites in Alsace, is run by Jean-Marie Bechtold, who is the fourth generation to lead here and has an outstanding reputation for producing top notch classically styled wines. The winery notes that Jean-Marie began working with his father in 1980 and took the reins in 1995 and now works with about 12 hectares of vines, with parcels in the Grand Cru Engelberg being his most prized. The estate itself is located in Dahlenheim, west of Strasbourg in the slopes of the “Couronne d’Or”, a region of Alsace with 2000 years of viticultural history. Bechtold is conceded a traditional Alsace estate and has long embraced organic farming and now Jean-Marie Bechtold, as the winery adds, is currently making the conversion to full biodynamic viticulture. To be true to each terroir and family style, Bechtold’s fermentations are mainly all done in stainless steel tanks with the objective of capturing the fresh acidity and typical dry style of the region, along with an elegant personality and a lighter feel, while this one is an outliner, but still delivering the core style. Bechtold, whose wines I’ve enjoyed for many years, does an excellent set of varietal offerings and an outstanding Crément bubbly, all of which I recommend.
($28 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive