2021 Domaine Dagueneau, par Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, Pouilly-Fumé “Cuvée XXI” Loire Valley, France.
The Cuvée XXI, maybe a one off, due to a challenging, small-yieldingvintage, which saw only about 40% of a normal crop and a high level of rot toward harvest, meant that Dagueneau in 2021 didn’t do their full collection of wines. Louis-Benjamin ended up blending his various cuvées that would typically be bottled separately into this one wine, so the pedigree here is staggering, as there was no Pur Sang or Silex. I absolutely loved the XXI and found it easier to enjoy in its youth than a more normal vintage, it may never be up to a better vintage, but it is damn good stuff with Dagueneau quality and integrity throughout, showing off intense mineral and stony character and racy lemon/lime, white peach, muskmelon and gooseberry fruit, plus a touch of leesy depth, saline, herbs, wet chalk and tangy acidity. Impressive in the glass, hinting at the Dagueneau grip and aging potential, but just divine as is, and maybe a lack of collector interest will make it easier to find and without the secondary markups being as high, for a producer that is so sought after. The wines at Dagueneau, as widely known, have always been raised in oak barrels and through the1980s which included extensive experimentation, there is always a mix of sizes, shapes and percentage of new wood. Mostly used barrels are employed to allow for complete single site transparency in these awesome Sauvignon Blancs. The winery says the oak use varies in degree depending on vineyard and vintage. The Dagueneaus over the years, it is also noted, have worked with many the world’s great artisan barrel makers to create some uniquely-shaped, cigar like, very low-toast barrels and small foudres to age their wines in. Even in a difficult or off year, such as 2021 proved to be, you can count on Dagueneau to overcome almost any shortcomings
The Dagueneau’s family history and wines is and will always be linked to the soils here with Kimmeridgian, clay-limestone and flinty Silex all playing a role here and tiny yields give age worthy structures and soulful mineral driven character. One of the wine world’s original rebels, the late Didier Dagueneau, who was one of France’s most iconic producers, was a fourth generation winemaker in the Pouilly-Fumé region, famous for his exploits as a motorcycle racer before turning to his historic collection to wine. He is most famous for his outstanding single parcel Sauvignon Blanc wines, which his started making in 1982 with his En Chailloux, were unlike anything else being made in the area, but his masterpieces, the Pur Sang and Silex parcels added in 1985 and 1988 respectively are the bottlings that made him famous. He brought passion and a Burgundy like thought process to his vines, in fact he was even mentored by the legendary Henri Jayer, as well as Sancerre maestro Edmond Vatan. Nothing was was left to chance and the incredible care he put into each of his vines was far beyond what anyone else was doing in his area of the Loire and he was just as precise and innovative in the chilly cellars he worked with. Sadly Didier was killed in a light aircraft crash in 2008 at age 52, and the world mourned, but not all was lost as his son has risen to the moment and has in the next almost two decades since has kept every bit of quality and character in the wines. It has been impressive to witness, with Louis-Benjamin thrown in the deep end with unbelievable expectations, and I’ve been lucky enough to have had many occasions to try just released and cellar aged versions of Didier’s wines as well as Louis-Benjamin’s and I can tell you the younger Dagueneau has now almost eclipsed his father and his quiet confidence and his respect for the traditions have Dagueneau world leaders in Sauvignon Blanc! Daguenau wines are true artworks and must try bucket list masterpieces, don’t miss an opportunity to experience any and all you can.
($139 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive