2011 Domaine Ramonet, Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Caillerets” Premier Cru, White Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, France.
Starting to show its age and getting a deep gold hue in the glass and very nutty and flinty on the nose, this 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets Blanc still shows its pedigree and depth, in fact it was really lovely, especially since I tried a 2014 version recently that was totally premoxed and undrinkable. The premature oxidation phenomenon is sadly still affecting white Burgundies, even top names like Ramonet and weirdly somewhat hit and miss, with some older vintages seemingly not affected, and while this 2011 is feeling peaked, it is not a write off like the 2014 I tried was. The 2011 has classic baked apple, pear tart and lemon curd fruits, along with loads of hazelnut, clove spice, a touch of petrol, wet stone and butterscotch notes and was sturdy enough to handle some creamy cheese and a starter course, with a smooth richness on the medium/full bodied palate. For those of my generation, Ramonet was always a special experience, much the way the wines of Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Coche-Dury and Roulot are revered these days. With the prices of Burgundy these days, you’d expect pristine wines that can age 15 to 20 years, but what a huge disappointment it would be to find them premoxed, some collectors are braver than I could ever be.
The Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets Blanc comes the classic chalky limestone slopes above the village of Chassagne from two parcels of Chardonnay vines planted in 1982 and traditionally made in the signature reductive style of this domaine, one of Burgundy’s most famous names, with close to 60% new wood used. The lees aging in barrique lasts for close to 15 months giving that rich and concentrated mouth feel, while retaining a liquid mineral intensity and vibrancy. The Ramonet wines are made now by the third generation of Ramonets, with Jean-Claude and Noël leading the way here at this legendary winery, following their family’s traditions and house style. The Ramonets hand pick their Premier Crus and cool press the grapes to tank for primary fermentation with natural native yeasts before being racked to barrel to finish up with the wine being rested on the full lees with being settled out. The Ramonets I hear are believers that the wine really benefits from the lees contact and adds depth and character with some stirring employed. The wine matures in the French oak, as noted above, for usually between 12 to 15 months and depending on vintage see anywhere between 35 to 65% new wood. This 2011, a vintage I had lots of joy with 5 to 7 years ago, is not getting any younger or better, but I enjoyed it none the less, but that said I wouldn’t let it go any longer in the cellar.
($350 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive