2009 Paolo Scavino, Barolo “Carobric” Piedmonte, Italy.
Paolo Scavino, run by Enrico, the late Paolo’s son, as well as his two daughters Enrica and Elisa, who are now stepping to become the new face of this famous Barolo producer that was founded back in 1921, and well known for their amazing examples of Barolo. Ever the perfectionist, Enrico continues to experiment with small lots and single parcel fermentation of his Nebbiolo to make the best wines possible from his great vineyard holdings in the Castiglione zone, where they have their famous Cru on Fiasco Hill, the renown Bric del Fiasc. Scavino also has prime spots in Cannubi, Rocche Annunziata, Bricco Ambrogio and most recently a piece of Verduno’s Cru Monviglero all which provide great material for their lineup. The winery is one of the most modern and clear in the region, though they use some small French barriques they have re-focused their winemaking to use less new oak and craft a more traditional Barolo.
These days Scavino vinifies in stainless steel tanks using native yeasts, all with temperature control and cool with about 12 days of maceration and a 25 day or so primary ferment before a 10 month spell in mostly neutral French oak, then rested another 12 months in large Slavonian casks before returning to stainless for another 10 months prior to bottling. The results are remarkably consistent and Scavino is always one of the elite wines of the vintage, they are wonderfully refined, but with a real sense of power and structure, even in warm vintages, like this 2009 Carobric Barolo, which slows fabulous detail, depth and vibrancy, it’s an absolute beauty with ripe silky tannin and lovely perfumed fruit. This Carobric comes from three of Scavino’s best terroirs, it’s mainly sourced from Rocche di Castiglione vineyard, in Falletto, as well as having smaller percentages of Cannubi and the estate Grand Cru Fiasco vineyard, all which highlight the house style and make for a elegant version of Barolo, but with classic form and balance.
Don’t be fooled by the finesse and smoothness on this 2009 edition of Carobric, it’s a sexy and full bodied Barolo that lacks for nothing and should continue to age well with gorgeous layers of damson plum, brandied cherry, cranberry and spiced raspberry along with dried roses, meatiness, cinnamon, minty herbs, anise and light balsamic notes with faint earth, mineral and sandalwood. This Barolo has plenty of stuffing with mouth filling density and pretty mouth feel, it’s a wine that is entering it’s prime at almost 10 years old, drink over the next 3 to 5 years, Scavino is always a treat in the glass and this rusty/ruby red Barolo is drinking wonderful right now.
($70 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive