2012 Bernardo Estevez, Ribeiro Blanco “Issue” Galicia, Spain.
A brilliant, remarkably pure and stylish white that shows lessy richness and concentration, but has bright focus and intriguing delicacy of layering with mineral laced beauty throughout. This wine is brand new to me, but I’ll be watching for more from this talented producer for sure! Imported by Jose Pastor Selections, Bernardo Estevez is all biodynamic and hand crafts his wines from native varietals, the Issue is a field blend of Lado, Treixadura, Godello, Albarino and Caino Blanco y Silveirina grapes fermented naturally with indigenous yeasts and very low sulfur in true artisan fashion. The result here with Bernardo’s 2012 Issue Ribeiro Blanco is a wonderfully textured wine with vitality of energy, focus and gorgeous mouth feel on par with top white Burgundies in class, but true to it’s own terroir, similar to the fine examples made by Luis Rodriguez from the same region. In this past year, I must say Galicia, especially Rias Baixas, Ribeiro and the Ribeira Sarca, is the most exciting wine region on earth right now for both whites and reds with amazing Mencia(s) that can rival the best from both the northern Rhone and or Burgundy at a fraction of the price, plus whites like this one from Estevez, taking on Chablis, Alsace, Austria and or Germany for minerality and dynamic power! The 2012 Bernardo Estevez Issue shines with bright citrus, stone fruits and wet stones leading the way with a lovely intensity, but with graceful density, this wine charms with seductive ease showing peach, green melon, hazelnut, brioche/lees, flinty shale spiciness and creamy lime. This medium full white oozes class and opulence while retaining a crisp vigor and chalky poise. Lengthy with hints of brine and loam as well as pear and white flowers, this wine is well worth it’s not so cheap price, it’s stunning in form, performance and detail, drinking it is a thrill ride, enjoy this over the next 5 to 7 years, this is a name to watch for!
($55 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive
