2014VonWinningParadeisgarten2014 Weingut von Winning, Riesling Trocken, Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Erste Lage, Pfalz Germany.
The bright and clear pale gold Paradiesgarten 1er Lage Trocken, one of von Winning’s Premier Cru dry Rieslings, is like a swan, is is beautiful and graceful, though while young is a bit awkward and even a touch ugly, but wow it is really starting to blossom now and is a glorious and dynamic wine. The 2014 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Cru leads with white flowers, rosewater, salty herbs with lemongrass and intense mineral notes leading to vibrant lime, tangy green apple, hints of white peach, mango skin, nectarine and wet stones. The extract is chalky and there is a touch of earthy complexity starting to emerge which adds character, this wine certainly looks to be a classic, it just needs a bit more time to unwind completely, it is von Winning’s best deal in dry Cru Rieslings and it as it opens in the glass gets very Chablis steely and reveals more textural pleasure and charm. I might call it nervy at first sip, but by the third sip you are beginning to rock and roll, I love it personally and can’t wait for Spring and Summer evenings to enjoy this racy white with it’s crisp and cool vigorous acidity and tightly wound focus. While not as generous and flamboyant as the Grosses Gewachs, this is a super wine with great mid term potential and rewards, drink over the next decade. For the best value from von Winning be sure to look for this and the new 2015 Riesling “Winnings” that has just a bit of sweetness, they are both steals!
($29 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive

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