2014ForadoriManzoni2014 Foradori, Fontanasanta, Manzoni Bianco, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Italy.
The beautiful and pure Manzoni, a crossing of Riesling and Pinot Bianco, is a perfect summer white with plenty of complexity and fascinating character along with sizzling acidity and mineral tones going well with cool stone fruit. This steely edged wine is ultra fine and crisply elegant with subtle savory elements, it was fermented on it’s skins in cement vats and aged in acacia wood casks, the use of acacia rather than oak is usually to impart less flavor and allow the wine to speak truly of place as is the case here. Elizabetta Foradori’s estate is one of the best in the Alto Adige and her wines have become an inspiration and motivation for a new generation of winemakers and enthusiasts alike, these natural wines made with respect to the land and tradition are some of the greatest in world let alone the Alto Adige, proving real natural wines have a place at the table with the world’s best. Dedicated to organic farming, no chemicals and low or no sulfur the Foradori wines capture the soul and essence of the hillside terroir above Trentino both in her whites like this one, and of course her main red wines made from the native Teroldego grape and expressed in many ways, be in French oak, Amphora (clay) or stainless. The 2014 Fontanasanta Manzoni Bianco is lovely with delicate floral and citrus leading the way with pretty apricot, peach and lemon/lime coming through on the palate with an earthy note, orange rind and quince layer along with a dusting of spices, alpine herb and chalky stones. At first very light and shy, it opens with air to about medium weight, but held firm with acidity and a bit of skin extract, there is a sense of power and nobility in this white that is both alluring and sexy, even though it is very young and stand offish! Lingering tangerine, pear, wet river rocks and melon add to the joyous depth in this beauty, it is at it’s best with cuisine, even though it is vibrant and refreshing on it’s own, it shows more personality with food, especially mountain cheeses, seafood and or cured ham. Like trocken Riesling and Gruner Veltliner this Manzoni can age well, drink over the next 3 to 7 years, this feels like a special vintage of this wine, so I’d certainly search out a few bottles why you can.
($34 Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive

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