2021 Château Fuissé, Pouilly-Fuissé AOC “Tête de Cuvée, White Burgundy, France.
The 2021 Tête de Cuvée Pouilly-Fuissé from the famous Château Fuissé shows off classic white Burgundy character and detail with loads of lemony citrus, golden apple, pear and tangy peach fruits, along with hazelnut, clove, chalky stone and subtle wood and floral accents in a medium bodied wine that impresses the palate with a touch of creamy luxuriousness and mineral clarity. I can’t think of a more French way to celebrate Bastille Day than with a wine like this one, and this Pouilly-Fuissé will go great with so many dishes, and especially with a creamy selection of Époisses de Bourgogne cheese and baguette. From what I hear the 2020 and 2022 versions are more concentrated and fuller bodied, but I loved the lighter fresher nature of this 2021, of course that is just a personal preference and I’m sure I wouldn’t mind drinking any of them. The Vincent family has done a fabulous job of promoting the region and creating a standard of excellence in the wines here, there’s a lot to admire in Pouilly-Fuissé, Saint-Veran and the whole Mâcon these days, and Château Fuissé deserves quite a large percentage of credit for the upswing in quality in this part of Burgundy.
Château Fuissé, which dates back to 1604, has been in the hand of the Vincent family for five generations now, with each of generations in charge having raised the game and added vineyard sites. They all increased the quality of the fruit and the wines, all of which has enhanced, as their importer Frederick Wildman notes, the worldwide recognition of Château Fuissé. Today’s generation is Antoine Vincent, and he’s been maybe the best yet in terms of getting the most from their vines and is recognized throughout the region for his commitment to quality. The wines here such that most people will find them as compelling as the more famous appellations of Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault in the Côte de Beaune, just to the north. The most famous vineyards of Château Fuissé are Les Brûlés, Les Combettes and Le Clos, which are surrounding the château itself and are bottled as specific cuvées to showcase their unique terroirs, while this one is a blend of estate controlled parcels throughout the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC. The winery says that presently, both Les Brûlés and Le Clos are in review by the INAO for premiers crus designation, which would be reward for the passion the Vincent’s have put into them and a credit to what is possible here. The Château Fuissé’s Tête de Cuvée shouldn’t be too hard to find and I think it’s a good time to try it, if you’ve not had it.
($49 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive