2009 Domaine Henri Gouges, Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru, Clos des Porrets St.-Georges, Monopole, Red Burgundy, France.
The Gouges wines are always a class act, and this 2009 surprises for it’s reserved and elegant character in such a warm vintage, I had expected a bit more weight and fruit, but it was remarkably fine and detailed with stunning mineral tones and subtle layers, it was almost crisp and delicate, while still providing depth and lingering grace. This 2009 Clos des Porrets St.-Georges Monopole is a beauty, a friend and client opened it from their collection of under $100 Burgundies to see where the vintage was going and shared it among a few curious souls, it’s refinement and balance were admired greatly and while not a blockbuster, it impressed and it certainly looks set for a long life, with solid tannins, good acidity and dark fruit intensity. It is as with all Gouges, a bit shy at first, slow to reveal much with an earthy punch to start with, opening to rose petals, graphite, ceps, gravelly loam and bright mineral before a core of black cherry, wild plum and steely currant fruit emerges. Solid, but light to medium weight showing, this is at a stage prior to it gaining back some weight and richness, though still exciting to drink, a nice size glass allows thought and pleasure to unfold, there is a heavenly silkiness that develops and an array of spice, floral tones and light cedar that adds complexity to this Burgundy. Lots of promise to be found here, if you own this bottle, you’ll be very happily rewarded by it’s glorious nature, it’s all Gouges, but be patient, I think another 5 to 10 years will be an ideal waiting period, maybe longer, but who has the time? The Henri Gouges Nuits-St.-Georges offerings are rock solid choices in Burgundy, and remain excellent values, and I’m happy to see my experience with them re-enforces that opinion, this was a real treat and a thrill.
($80+ Est.) 93+ Points, grapelive