2015 Weingut Bründlmayer, Riesling “Kamptaler Terrassen” Kamptal, Wachau, Austria.
Based in Langenlois, Weingut Bründlmayeris now led by Vincent, who’s vision is a continuation of the long held beliefs of his famous dad Willi is now making some of the most intriguing and as Terry Theise (importer) says “nobel” wines of the region. Willi converted a lot his vineyards to the Lyre training system, which he helped develop, it allow better development of the grapes in the cooler sites, with the vines trained low to the ground, to benefit from the warmth of the primary rock soils, with the canes trained at an angle going upward and perpendicular to the row, which doubles the sunlit and aired foliage surface and improves grape ripeness. Bründlmayer is focused on the drier styles with grapes grown on the primary rock with mica slate soils, with a mix of calcareous loam, gneiss, desert sandstone and with volcanic particles. Bründlmayer uses only organic fertilizers in their vineyards, and cover crops are planted between rows. During harvest, multiple selections through the vineyard are made, botrytis is never accepted in the winery, they go for purity and brisk detail, especially in their Rieslings. This wine comes from steep slopes in only terraced plots making for a special terroir focused example of intense dry Riesling that goes exceptionally well with sea food, soft cheeses and in particular oysters! The 2015 Terrassen Riesling is crystal clear, brightly fresh and with lovely definition, it thrills the palate with zesty citrus, leaning on lime purity with hints of white peach, verbena, mineral tones, almond oil, lemongrass and wet gravel and in a focused steely frame that is crisp, sleek and wonderfully lifted by a delicate white flower perfume, natural acidity and mouth filling extract. Bründlmayer is without question one of the best in Austria and Vincent’s influence has helped it reach the next level, not just with his Riesling and Gruner Veltliner, which are absolutely gorgeous, especially in the 2013 and 2015 vintages, but you’ll not want to miss their sparkling wines, which are as good as almost anything coming from grower producers in Champagne, as well as Bründlmayer’s stylish Pinot Noir and even their rare Cabernet Franc! Drink this dry Riesling over the next 3 to 5 years, it’s class act, crafted by a rising talent.
($25 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive

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