2014 Hirsch Vineyards, Pinot Noir, San Andreas Fault, Sonoma Coast.
The lush and remarkably generous Hirsch 2014 San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir is loaded with layers of opulent and open fruit, while remaining pure, vibrant and sublimely harmonious with heightened array of flavors, complexity and class, this maybe the best young Hirsch that I’ve tasted! This vintage was one of the last done by Ross Cobb, of his namesake Cobb Wines, who, I’m a huge fan and have been for last 12 or so years and I admire his past and present efforts, especially this gorgeous Pinot he did for Jasmine Hirsch and family. In the future we’ll see the talented Anthony Filiberti, of Anthill Farms, crafting the wines here, so there will be no drop off or stylistic change here and the future looks very bright indeed for Hirsch, one of the pioneers of the real west of the west Sonoma Coast, a remote cool climate region that is sadly lumped into the vast AVA that has so many micro-climates and terroirs it has become a bone of contention and unrest within the more western colder sites that feel they are better suited for delicate, lower alcohol, Burgundy styled Pinot Noirs. Hirsch is one of California’s great Crus and this 2014 is an amazingly lovely wine and it should age wonderfully with it’s fantastic structure and core of deep fruit, while forward, it has plenty to offer the patient, rewards will follow no question. The 2014 starts with lots of racy red fruit, heady wilted rose petals and dusty spices which leads to a beautiful silken palate of surprising density with black cherry, plum, briar laced raspberry and dried currant as well as hints of violets, blood orange tea, cinnamon/vanilla and saline notes. Seriously hedonistic, but with balancing acidity, focus and satiny refined charm, making this a stunning Pinot Noir that takes on a freshness with air and an underlying stone/mineral that reminds you that it pays homage to the Cote d’Or, it reminds me of 2005 vintage Burgs in many ways, especially Domaine de Montille’s Nuits-St.-Georges Premier Cru Grandes Vignes and the Clos des Porrets by Henri Gouges! This is a very special wine, if you want to get to the true nature of a great California Pinot Noir this would be a place to look, drink over the next 5 to 15 years.
($64 Est.) 94-96 Points, grapelive

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