N.V. Julien Prélat, Extra Brut Champagne “Les Côtes Blanc de Gris” Celles sur Ource, Côte des Bar, France.
There’s an amazing array of new generation of grower fizz Champagne producers and I’ve not even been able to scratch the surface of them, including the bubbly of Julien Prélat, who is gaining a fine reputation for single vineyard cuvées, such as this wildly different and distinctive 100% Pinot Gris Champagne Les Côtes Blanc de Gris, which I recently tried with my friend Alex Lallos, who sells, or drinks, this wine. Lallos, who is himself a wine professional, has in the last ten or so years developed a passion for these modern grower producers, as well as the classic Grand Marques, is a big talent spotter so I was thrilled to taste through a few of his latest finds, with this one being a stand out. The pale gold and delicately aromatic Les Côtes Blanc de Gris is mineral laden and dry on the palate, with some chalky notes, but impresses for the rich impact with layers of golden apple, fig, lemon curd, quince and tart pear fruits, along with leesy brioche, creme de brûlée, wet stone, hazelnut and flinty notes. This bubbly, with soft acidity, is best enjoyed with food and it was impactful with a range of cuisine, though I’d suggest shellfish and poultry dishes.
The unique Julien Prélat grower producer Champagne Les Côtes Blanc de Gris is made from sustainable all young vine Pinot Gris coming from the 2021 vintage, from a parcel he grafted over in 2017, making it a regional rarity not made from the classic Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Meunier. The wine grapes were harvested at good phenolic and ripeness levels to allow for a lower dosage (Extra Brut) and adds to the richness and depth here, with the vinification, both primary and malo-lactic fermentation done in small stainless steel tanks, where it saw a year or so aging period on the lees, with most of the maturing done under cork after disgorgement, which was done March of 2024. Prélat says he is aware that he’s simply borrowing the lands he’s have inherited; and is faithful to this principle of gratitude and cultivates his vines and developing his wines for durably with true sustainably, hoping to protect them for future generations. These wines, imported by Thatcher Imports, have been discovered and the price has reached more serious enthusiast levels, maybe having put them a little out of reach for the curious, but fair for the quality in the wines. I might not stock up on this particular bottle, as I typically like racier styles, I am thrilled that I got a chance to try it and admire the unique 100% Pinot Gris nature and look forward to trying other of the Prélat sparklers.
($90 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive