2012 Mouzon-Leroux, L’infellable, Blanc de Noirs, Brut Nature Champagne, Special Club, Verzy Grand Cru, France.
One of the most stylish and energy filled grower producer Champagne labels to emerge in recent years, in America is Sebastien Mouzon’s Mouzon-Leroux, these hand crafted and natural sparkling wines are striking efforts, especially his L’Atavique Extra Brut, one of my new favorites and this gorgeous vintage 2012 Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Special Club bottling L’ineffable Brut Nature (non dosage) made from 100% Pinot Noir. This vivid bubbly has small beading and luxurious elegance with mainly apple and lemon fruits along with loads of mineral, brioche, hazelnut and a touch of spice, gaining presence and impact in the glass and lingering on the finish, this is a riveting Champagne that is pure class. Those that love Vilmart, Agrapart and even Krug will want to check this winery out, Mouzon is certainly making a name for himself with his organic and biodynamic vineyards in top sites and his deft crafting of these Champagnes.

These Mouzon-Leroux Grower Champagnes are made with a combination of stainless and French oak for fermentation and aging with Mouzon’s 2012 Grand Cru Special Club being 55% seeing elevage in used Burgundy barrels, which are usually sourced from Jadot, to add substance, texture and complexity, while 45% is kept in stainless to preserve the detail, vitality and zippy freshness, which I find irresistible in Mouzon’s sparkling wines. This Special Club is 100% Pinot Noir, 100% Grand Cru from Verzy, an elite chalky area that is ultra mineral intense in profile, which allows for the use of wood and full malos without taking away from the clarity and power in the substance/depth and structure, these are Champagnes that will cellar for many decades. This Special Club L’ineffable was rested on the lees for 60 months before disgorgement helping in elevating the mouth feel and provides a rich counterpoint to the racy acidity and steely edge, this is a Champagne with an extra level of wow!
($150 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive

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