2021 Odonata, Syrah, Soberanes Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands.
The gorgeous 2021 Soberanes Syrah from Denis Honey at Odonata is drinking great with full integration of flavors and textures, it showcases this cru vineyard site nicely and is aromatic, deep and lengthy on the full bodied palate. Uniquely, as Soberanes doesn’t have any Viognier, Odonata, taking a cue from Côte-Roie, co-fermented about 3% Viognier with this Alban clone Syrah and that has added a tiny extra dimension here and the wine is complex and complete with its brambly blackberry, currant, damson plum and blueberry core of fruit, along with crushed peppercorns, violet florals, sprigs of rosemary, black olive, minty sage and anise notes. This vineyard always reminds of just how impactful and great Syrah is here in the Santa Lucia Highlands and this wine has loads of charm and its own distinctive personality, it is an exceptional value and a sleeper in the lineup of quality Odonata offerings. Odonata Wines was founded in Santa Cruz back in 2005, but really has become a full fledged estate winery, after relocating to Monterey’s wine country in 2014 when they moved into the old Marilyn Remark Winery property. There’s always a lot to like at Odonata, based on River Road on the edge of the Santa Lucia Highlands, and while I usually am drawn to their Syrah, Pinot Noir and Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon here, I really liked the new 2021 Malbec and the Grenache Rouge Sparkler.
The Soberanes Vineyard, as noted before, owned and farmed by the Pisoni team led by Mark Pisoni, is set on decomposed granite and sandy loams, high up in the Santa Lucia Highlands with good warm exposures and a long growing season captures the essence of the region with its cool Pacific Ocean breezes and chilly nights allowing for the long hang time, benefiting the grapes, giving deep ripe flavors and a lift of natural acidity. Odonata does this version, along with an Escolle and a Hook Vineyard bottling, but this one is truly a stand out. As I’ve said many times and in my prior reviews, Soberanes is without a doubt one of the most important sites for Syrah in the state, as seen here clearly it excels, along with the supernatural efforts of Cattleya and with the Pisoni family’s own Lucia version. Made from 97% Syrah and 3% Viognier, the Odonata Soberanes Syrah, fermented with naive yeasts and partial whole cluster is rich and ripely plush on the palate, coming in at close to 14.7% natural alcohol, but still remaining a cool climate feel and Norther Rhône attitude in the glass. The wine macerated for a lengthy period before being pressed to barrel, with 40% new wood and aged 18 months in a 500L French oak Puncheon. Be sure to get out to Odonata, not a far drive down River Road, to taste the latest limited offerings, enjoy the Santa Lucia Highlands setting and or check them out online sat their website, there’s a lot to like in the new releases, not this wonderful Syah.
($42 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive