2020 Bodegas Muga, Rioja Reserva, Rioja Alta, Spain.
The deeply saturated dark garnet and ruby edged 2020 Muga Reserva is wonderfully polished and pure Rioja with a lush full bodied palate of blackberry, black cherry, plum, mulberry and Mission fig fruit layers along with a elegant sandalwood element, long smooth tannins, a touch of loamy earth, anise, creme de cassis and delicate dark floral notes. As per normal, the Muga Reserva, which the winery says is composed of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 7% Mazuelo, and 3% Graciano, is made in Muga’s traditional and sustainable style of Riojan viticulture, which they add, is in fact organic, but uncertified. These vineyards are planted in the coolest and highest elevation sites of the Rioja Alta and grow on terraced parcels with calcareous clay soils from the Tertiary or Cenozoic period. The climate is continental with some cooling Atlantic influences up at this area, making for powerful wines, but with a sublime balance, as this one shows. This vintage follows Muga’s recent form of impressive mouthfeel and impeccable balance, making this one very rewarding even in its youthful form and offers serious drinking for an exceptional price, when compared to Bordeaux and or California offerings. The bit of American oak used here adds to the luxurious nature of this wine, giving hints of cedary spice and toasted coconut, as found in top traditionally styled Rioja wines, with the French oak proving a touch of smoke, supple creaminess and graphite to this beautiful Tempranillo based effort, it’s a wine that will best enjoyed with a full and robust meal, especially lamb, steak and or duck breast.
One of the noble family’s in Spanish wine, the Muga’s, who founded the winery in 1932, as I’ve mentioned in prior reviews, and run now by Isaac Muga and Aurora Caño continue to be great ambassadors of the Rioja region and the heritage here. Muga pays great respect for traditions here in the region and takie great pleasure in preserving and protecting the environment and terroir. The lineup here is vast and delicious, every wine a treat, from their light white Rioja Blanco and Rosé (Rosado) to their Tempranillo based, powerful reds.like this Reserva. As noted, the Reserva, coming from mature vines, some of which were planted between 1926 and 1976, is 100% de-stemmed and the grapes are rigorously sorted, as the winery notes, then it sees an indigenous yeast fermentation from a vineyard pied de cuve in custom made open top oak fermenters that were produced here at the winery. The 2019 Muga, after fermentation and cool maceration, was then pressed and racked over to French and American oak barrels, seeing a light egg white fining, where the wine is aged for 24 months, after which it rests in bottle for another 12 months. The combination of French and American oak is well proportioned and adds to the wine’s supple tannin(s) and luxurious mouth feel, adding a seductive element without being over done, very much in line with a quality growth Bordeaux. Rioja is seeing a serious re-awakening period these days, with dozens of exciting new wines and this is a great time to re-discover this region, and this classic wine is a great way to start exploring the range of wines and producers. There’s a lot to admire in Muga’s collection, as seen here and as well as the delightful Rosé that I just reviewed.
($36 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive