2023 Christophe et Fils, Chablis, White Burgundy, France.
Again and Again I’m thrilled by these Christophe et Fils Chablis wines, and this 2023 is maybe the best yet with a gorgeous tension between concentration and steely mineral intensity, it rises above its regional label, in fact I wouldn’t have been surprised if this was presented as a Premier Cru, such was the quality and complexity it shows in the glass. Brilliant pale gold and aromatic, the crisp and precision crafted 2023 Christophe Chablis shows off lime, apple, bitter peach and hints of lemon curd fruits, along with clove spice, flinty notes, subtle yeasty notes and loads of wet stones and classic chalky detail. There’s terroir purity here that absolutely never waivers throughout and a lingering oyster shell, saline and citrus that makes this wine great with food, it easily pairs with poultry, white fish and or soft cheeses. The Christophe et Fils Chablis is made with minimal intervention in the cellar, the hand picked Chardonnay grapes were pressed and then settled for 24 hours before being racked into another tank where it went through a natural yeast fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 1-2 months. The juice typically sees a single stirring of the lees (batonnage), which is usually employed only in cold vintages to add texture and then the wine, which went through malolactic (fermentation) was then aged about 8 months, again solely in stainless steel vats, before bottling with low SO2.
As I’ve said before, even the Christophe et Fils Petite Chablis, from the family’s original vines, is absolutely gorgeous as well, but this regular Chablis AC is at another level, on par with many much more expensive Premier Crus, even by some famous names, such is the precision and quality here. As noted, with a holistic view to farming and a very gentile touch in the cellar these Christophe et Fils Chablis bottlings are true terroir driven wines, they are vibrant and expressive in a way that really captures the essence of the region and winemaker Sebastien Christophe is a star. His story is awesome and there is a lot more to come, but as a young kid with just a couple of acres of average vineyard land at best, plus a small half hectare parcel of Petit Chablis, he has risen fast, seemingly out of nowhere to become of of the region’s brightest and most gifted talents, with now three of the most heralded Premier Cru parcels in the region, Fourchaume, Mont de Milieu and my all time favorite Montée de Tonnerre! In recent years Sebastien even added a few rows of Blanchots, of which is now his most rare offering. Christophe has vines set on Chablis’ classic soils, with a combination of the legendary Kimmeridgian limestone marls and Portlandian limestone scree with various topsoil mixtures of clay and rocks, all of which give these distinct Chardonnay wines their unique and coveted personalities. I am grateful to have tried many vintages of Christophe, and I highly recommend exploring their full collection of offerings, but this regular bottling of Chablis should be the must grab first wine.
($34 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive