2018 Fattoria di Bacchereto – Rosella Bencini Tesi, Terre A Mano, Carmignano DOCG, Tuscany, Italy.
Rosella Bencini’s Carmignano DOCG is a rare bottling and is beautiful authentic and complex wine with a structured core of Sangiovese, making for a natural and nicely rustic wine deep in flavor and great with a hearty meal. Dark garnet in the glass and sultry on the full bodied palate with blackberry, mulberry, currant, plum and strawberry fruits, along with cedar, minty herbs, earthy truffle, leather, spicy tobacco leaf, dried flowers and hint of mocha. This wine sees maceration and fermentation in concrete tanks with native yeasts only, then matured in French 350L Tonneaux barrels for 28 months, after which another 6 months in bottle before release. Carmignano, a unique Tuscan region, only a short distance west of Florence is largely under the radar, but is a high quality terroir. Carmignano, as I’ve mentioned before my reviews, also was the first to include Cabernet Sauvignon in the official blend, along side Sangiovese and as well as the native Canaiolo Nero grapes. According to the historic rules here, to be classified as a Carmigniano DOCG Rosso, the wine must age at least 8 months in oak or chestnut barrels, and it must contain at least 50% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo Nero, and or 10-20% of the Cabernet Sauvignon, a varietal that was said to have first been introduced to the area by another Medici, Catherine, the wife of the King of France. Fattoria di Bacchereto’s main interest is their Carmignano DOCG Rosso, but their non DOC or DOCG bottlings, including this IGT Bianco, a super limited bottling, and a 100% Sangiovese IGT Rosso are very much worth checking out too.
Fattoria di Bacchereto, one of only 14 producers who make Carmigniano wine in the DOCG Carmigniano, the smallest appellation in Italy, is owned by Rossella Bencini Tesi, who inherited the estate after her father and brother sadly passed away in the 1990s. Though having no prior experience herself in the winemaking process, Tesi put management of the winery into the hands of experts until she was introduced to biodynamic and organic techniques in 2000. After which, she, I understand then implemented these methods at her winery, and through this, she saw a dramatic change in the environment and resulting wines she produced. Over time, these malnourished vines were revitalized, the soils became healthy and the terroir enhanced, turning a little known estate into a model for the region. Interestingly, not only is Carmignano the smallest region in Tuscany, but it is also one of the oldest appellations worldwide, having been first registered in 1716 by Cosimo III de Medici, the Grand Duke of Tuscany. It is a hilly and heavily forested area, again not too far from Florence, indeed, it was the preferred hunting grounds for the noble Medici family when they resided there during the season. In most vintages this wine is 75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and around 10% Canaiolo, with this smoothly textured 2018 really developing nicely, it should go another decade easily and provide rewarding pleasures all the way. Fattoria di Bacchereto’s main interest is this Carmignano DOCG Rosso, but their non DOC or DOCG bottlings, including their IGT Bianco, a super limited bottling, and a 100% Sangiovese IGT Rosso are very much worth checking out too.
($48 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive