2019 Vigne del Malina, Chardonnay, IGT Venezia Giulia, Italy.
One of the most intriguing winery discoveries at the 2025 Tre Bicchieri (Gambero Rosso) Tasting, was the Bacchetti family’s “Vigne del Malina” label, and their stunning no oak and no malo 2019 Chardonnay, which was mind-blowingly pure, stony, aromatic and elegant, like Chablis, but unapologetically Italian. The estate in Vigne del Malina is set between two ancient streams, the Malina and the Ellero, with tons of alluvial stones scattered throughout has produced a wine of style, subtlety and grace with a medium bodied steely palate and a beautiful pale golden hue in the glass, it delivers an array citrus and apple fruits with delicate orange blossoms, lemony tones, wet rock, a touch of peach, clove, hazelnut and lemon oil. Because of the maturity through bottle aging there’s a lovely play of texture and tension making for an exceptional and exciting wine. Imported by H. Mercer Imports, this wine is going be a tough get with the outstanding reviews, but well worth the chase and it will be best with food and allowed to open up fully, I’d suggest a poultry dish and or soft farm cheeses.
The Chardonnay, grown on stony alluvial soils was hand harvested and saw a soft whole cluster pressing with what the winery calls a static sedimentation clarification and a non malo-lactic fermentation in tank. Then the wine was matured with 10 months aging in stainless steel tank, after which another full 48 months of aging in bottle before release. The terroir here is distinct with its soil composed of alluvial gravels and large stones, along with a unique micro-climate with what the winery calls high thermal excursions, that are constantly ventilated by the wind channelled by the pre-alpine valleys. All allowing for perfect ripening and retention of acidity, perfect for grapes like Chardonnay, as seen here, plus Pinot Grigio, which I also tried and loved, along with the Refosco red grape, indigenous to this area of Northeastern Italy, and I to tree the Refosco and was really impressed. It was a great pleasure to taste the wines with Erica Bacchetti, of Vigne del Malina, who is the international face of the winery and part of a talented young generation in Italian wine and look forward to following these wines!
($35 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive