2017 Weingut Rings, Riesling Trocken, Saumagen VDP Grosses Gewächs, Pfalz, Germany.
The gorgeous, bright golden hued and wonderfully evolving 2017 Rings GG, which comes from the chalky limestone single vineyard Kallstadter Saumagen a highly respected VDP Grosse Lagen in the Pfalz, shows off loads of yellow fruits, powerful dry extract, well integrated acidity, a saline stony element, exotic tropical notes, spice and sublime mouth feel. The palate has impact with density and complexity with vigorous lemony citrus, green apple, apricot and quince fruits, along with clove, almond, lychee, verbena, chamomile, plus that chalky stone and mineral intensity. The Rieslings are spontaneously fermented and see a long time on lees and are partly aged in traditional, big wooden barrels with some getting a little stainless depending on the vintage if needed to preserve purity and energy. Rings, though actually founded in 2001, things didn’t really came together fully until 2008, when Steffen and his brother Andreas got together here, at their Freinsheim winery, and these mostly self taught winegrowers have now become rock stars within their region and in Germany, as well as building a cult like following here in the States! Those that are fans of the Pfalz region will want to get to know this winery and soon!
As we get closer to Riesling’s 590th birthday on March 13, 2025 I am focusing on some really incredible versions of this grape, and Rings has provided an outstanding dry example to celebrate with. Once the Riesling party is done for another year I will follow up with the rest of the Rings collection, I have reviewed Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, but there’s some reds to talk about. I was really thrilled again to try the latest releases from winemakers Steffen and Andreas Rings, who have Weingut Rings in the Pfalz, because they are now one of the superstars of Germany and are doing some innovative wines that are on the cutting edge, like their fantastic “Kalk & Stein” a unique Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc blend, a unique Bordeaux style red blend, a set of Burgundy like Pinot Noirs and their top notch Rieslings, like this Kallstadter Saumagen GG. The winery, as I noted before, employs certified organic methods in the vineyards, using things like buckwheat, radish and clover as cover crops to help aerate the soil and attract useful animals, along with using horse dung to fertilize the soil naturally. They also do rigorous sorting during take off leaves selectively and work with low yields. Importer German Wine Collection in California is getting a small allocation of Rings, so while not easy to get, I suggest searching for their wines.
($108 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive