2020 Poliziano, Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG “La Caggiole” Tuscany, Italy.
In recent years I have been really enjoying the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano offerings I’ve tried more than ever and I was already a fan of this part of Tuscany and of Sangiovese in particular, with the wines by Poliziano being favorites and this La Caggiole is very impressive for purity and elegance. This 2020 version shows off beautiful fruit density and complexity with an inviting deep garnet hue in the glass and a heady mix of aromatics, along with a dark fruited full bodied palate. Tasted at the Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri event, this serious Nobile has blackberry, black cherry, dusty plum and red currant fruits leading the way along with cedary framing, a mix of earth and spice, subtle florals, anise and cigar wrapper. The 14-hectare Le Caggiole vineyard, according to the winery, is located at an altitude of 350 m above sea level, on the road from Montepulciano to Gracciano. Not far from Poliziano’s famous Asinone vineyard, which they add, it has a completely different microclimate and geological profile with soils ithat are decidedly more sandy, of marine origin. The “Le Caggiole” vineyard that, after being studied, cared for, and re-planted to 100% Sangiovese, has allowed the production of a great, elegant and refined Sangiovese, as seen here. This wine, hand picked, de-stemmed and fermented in stainless steel and then saw 16-18 months in larger 500/600 litre French oak tonneaux. Now Poliziano is led by Dino’s son Federico Carletti and his children, Francesco and Maria Stella about to become the third generation to run this historic estate. Obviously the main focus at Poliziano is Prugnolo Gentile, the most prestigious clone of Sangiovese (the same as Sangiovese Grosso in Brunello di Montalcino), but they also have Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot vines, along with native rarities Canaiolo Nero and Colorino. Federico is the former president of the Consorzio del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, leading the group from 2008 to 2013 and led producers to make 100% Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) wines, like Brunello, instead of only being 70% as the rules dictate, and from the 2015 vintage on, as seen here, these pure Sangiovese wines will feature the word “Nobile” in larger type on their label and they must be from single vineyards.
Poliziano Vino Nobile, as mentioned many times in my prior reviews, is as it always seems to be, a benchmark wine for this region and delivers a classic tour de force of Tuscan goodness. The Poliziano winery in Montepulciano, as noted before, was named after Agnolo Ambrogini, who was more commonly known by his nickname “Poliziano” (born in 1454 and died in 1494), the famous Italian poet and humanist and considered the foremost classical scholar of the Renaissance period, he was also a friend and protege of legendary Lorenzo de’ Medici, of the ruling family of Florence. It was because of his ties to Montepulciano and his work as a humanist that make him one of the town’s most cherished sons, who’s name was derived from the Latin name of his birthplace, Montepulciano (Mons Politianus). He was poisoned at the age of 40 by followers of Piero de’ Medici who worried he might lay claim to the seat of power in the aftermath of Lorenzo’s death. His life was full of controversy and makes for fantastic reading, as does the history of the de’ Medici family, these were intriguing times to say the least! The Poliziano winery has storied past and was founded in 1961 by Dino Carletti, who was a visionary in the region and helped it gain its status as one of Tuscany’s premier DOCGs. As I’ve told before, I will always remember my first visit to Montepulciano, the rustic and beautiful hilltop town, once prized for the healing power of its spring waters that have long been used for local spa treatments, I got to witness this remote village bring in its grapes in late September and the air was filled with the glorious smell of fermentation, making the experience extra special. This wine brought back memories of a chaotic comedy, that could only happen in Italy with an ancient truck overloaded with grapes struggling to make it up a steep grade to the co-op in the old town and men rushing over to help push it up the final stretch, me included, with all of us, the old diesel included sliding dangerously on rain slick pavement! Oh man, I laughed, though I was worried I might be seriously injured or even be run over, happily we all, grapes included survived. It’s a place I look forward to seeing again and I highly recommend a visit and the wines, especially these Poliziano Nobile bottlings, like this brilliant La Caggiole.
($89 Est.) 95 Points, grapelive