2017 Paolo Scavino, Barolo DOCG, Monviglero Cru, Piemonte, Italy.
The Monviglero 2017 is full of savory crunch, tannic and old world character with a nose full of balsamic notes, bay leaf, brandied cherry, dried roses and licorice which are all echoed on the firm and edgy palate. Quite impressive and rustic in style this Cru Monviglero shows off a chalky core of red fruits, including the cherry, damson plum, strawberry and currant, along with minty herbs, sandalwood, a touch of meatiness and spicy accents. Maybe not the best of years to collect, 2017 can surprise and are usually good value for the money at this point and this one has plenty to offer, with a ripe sense and can be drunk young. These days, as mentioned in prior reviews, Scavino vinifies in stainless steel tanks using native yeasts, all with temperature control and cool with about 12 days of maceration and a 25 day or so primary ferment before a 10 month spell in mostly neutral French oak, then rested another 12 months in large Slavonian casks before returning to stainless for another 10 months prior to bottling. The results are remarkably consistent and Scavino is always one of the elite wines of the vintage, they are wonderfully refined, but with a real sense of power and structure, even in warm vintages, like this 2017 Monviglero shows. Scavino again is always a treat in the glass and this rusty/ruby red Barolo is drinking pretty delightfully right now, though best to decant and have with a hearty meal.
The famous Paolo Scavino Barolo house, now run by Enrico, the late Paolo’s son, as well as his two daughters Enrica and Elisa, who have stepped up to become the new face of this legendary producer that was founded back in 1921. Ever the perfectionist, Enrico continues to experiment with small lots and single parcel fermentation of his Nebbiolo to make the best wines possible from his great vineyard holdings in the Castiglione zone, where they have their famous Cru on Fiasco Hill, the renown Bric del Fiasc. Scavino also has prime spots in Cannubi, Rocche Annunziata, Bricco Ambrogio and most recently a piece of Verduno’s Cru Monviglero, see here, all which provide great material for their lineup. The winery is one of the most modern, humble, as my friend Alex Lallos discovered on his visit there recently, and clear in the region, though they use some small French barriques they have re-focused their winemaking to use less new oak and craft a more traditional Barolo. The collection here at Paulo Scavino has lots of individual effects that transparently show off some very distinctive terroir qualities, with this one being quite unique, when compared to their signature bottlings from Bric del Fiasc, Cannubi and Rocche Annunziata, one of my favorites. I also recommend the Carobric Barolo, that comes from three of Scavino’s best terroirs, it’s mainly sourced from Rocche di Castiglione vineyard, in Falletto, as well as having smaller percentages of Cannubi and the Fiasco vineyard, all which highlight the house style and make for a elegant version of Barolo, but with classic form and balance.
($80 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive