2013KesnerChard2013 Kesner, Chardonnay, Heintz Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.
Ever since Jason Kesner started making his own wine, after being assistant winemaker at Kistler, his wines have been spectacular, and these 2013’s look to eclipse all prior efforts, especially fascinating is the Heintz single vineyard Chardonnay, this is a wine that rivals the best from Peter Michael, Aubert and Ramey, a while a bit richer, it is in the same league as Ted Lemon’s best at Littorai, plus while not really comparable to white Burgundy, it does remind me a little of the Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey wines in texture and drive, high praise indeed! This Kesner 2013 is deep and full flavored with layers of lemon, honeysuckle, tropical fruit, kiwi, quince and clove spice with just a kiss of oak toast, wet river stones and hazelnut. This wine has vigor, zesty intensity and certainly will age 10 years easy, beautifully and artfully crafted showing class, hedonism and focused detail, this is serious stuff, delicious and decedent and almost half the price of the wines of which it competes! Drink this beauty over the next 3 to 5 years, though I like I mentioned I can see this being a fun option to cellar for a decade too, best from 2016 to 2021.
($60 Est.) 94+ Points, grapelive

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