2017 Lioco, Rosé of Carignan “Indica” Mendocino County.
One of California’s new generation of wineries, Lioco, owned by the Licklider family, the husband/wife duo Matt and Sara Licklider, they focus on natural style wines from cool climate sites, mostly extreme coastal ones in western Sonoma (Coast), Mendocino and the Santa Cruz Mountains. Matt has built up Lioco, especially in recent vintages, to a level that reminds me of Arnot-Roberts and Ceritas, his latest set of wines are very impressive with his Chardonnay, La Marisma, Santa Cruz Mountains being a huge stand out, it’s one of the best Chards I’ve tasted this year, but you’ll want to check out Lioco’s Pinot Noir, Saveria Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains, their Carignan “Sativa” Mendocino County and especially this intriguing Rosé. Lioco’s Indica Rosé of Carignan is a true natural Rosé, pick at about 19 brix and direct pressed with broken berries but still whole cluster in stainless steel tanks with a long cold ferment and extended malos, making for an intensely bone dry and refreshing pink wine from an old vine vineyard in the Talmage area in Mendocino. This site is rocky with a red clay underpinnings gives a burst of flavor to this wine, Licklider and winemaker Kai Kliegl really did a masterful job on this pink, it’s a mineral fresh dry Rosé, 100% old vine Carignan, from a vineyard that was planted back in the 1950’s, it comes in at only 11.9% and has plenty of driving acidity, but still appeals on the palate with tons of personality and character, it’s delicately pale salmon/pink and impresses for it’s cooly crisp details. Bright citrus, with unripe orange, watermelon, strawberry and tart cherry fruits on the brisk palate along with a steely mineral core as well as minty herb/sage, rosewater, chalky wet stones and apple skin. This flavorful and expressive Rosé is another top notch dry pink wine from California, perfect for our late blooming Summer, and Lioco is a winery to follow, without question these new releases are stunning!
($24 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive

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