2017 Morgan Winery, Riesling, Double L Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands.
Morgan’s Dan Lee was an early adopter of organic farming in the Santa Lucia Highlands, and while most of the old Riesling vines on the bench were ripped out, he planted a block at his home ranch at Double L Vineyard and while under the radar, I have always rated his Riesling as one of Morgan’s best white wines. Monterey’s new love affair with dry style Riesling has created a renaissance for this grape in the region with a growing number of small wineries crafting quality offerings led by Joyce Vineyards, Stirm Wines, Leppe Cellars, Kozba Wines, Tudor Wines along with winemaker Sam Smith at Morgan, this younger generation is focused on intensity mineral driven and crisp version mostly, while the older Monterey Rieslings tended to be sweeter off dry or dessert cloying styles which were not nearly as interesting as what we are now seeing here now. The 2017 Morgan Riesling Double L Vineyard, which starts with a hint of sweetness like a German Kabinett level wine, made from all organic grapes, is a wonderfully expressive white with a tropical core of fruit and stylishly crisp and focused with exotic guava, mango, kiwi, passionfruit and a mix of lemony citrus flowing across the vibrant minerally palate along with a subtle textural feel in the mouth and a light floral tone adding a touch of wet stones, green apple and tangy peach flesh/pit which gives a refreshing bit along with the natural acidity. Smith says he used an old school whole cluster pressing over a 24 hour period, including some foot stomp crushing before a cool ferment, all stainless steel, and early bottling to preserve it verve and fresh/brisk intensity. This super pleasing and expressive Riesling will play well with a wide array of dishes, especially seafoods, but will also be a great choice while sitting by the pool, drink now.
($22 Est.) 90 Points, grapelive

By admin