2019 Weingut Bründlmayer, Dry Riesling, Ried Zöbinger Heilgenstein, Erste Lage, Kamptal, Austria.
The beautifully aromatic and elegant 2019 Bründlmayer 1er Lage Ried Löbinger Heilgenstein Dry Riesling rival top Grosses Gewachs from Germany and upper echelon Alsace Rieslings, in terms or power and finesse this is an absolutely killer Austrian example, perfectly capturing varietal, place and vintage. The palate is full of mineral intensity, delicacy of fruit, zesty acidity and has a gorgeous textural quality that sets it apart, with layers of green apple, muskmelon, sour peach, tangerine and tropical fruits, along with tea spice, verbena, bitter almonds and wet stone. White flowers and a light leesy note gets things going here and the length is impressive, over all this Riesling leaves a noble impression and highlights the talented touch found in Bründlmayer’s wines, and there looks to be more to come here with age. Bründlmayer has a very high proportion of old vines, with many plantings well over 50 years old, and a parcel in the Heiligenstein that was planted back in the 1920s, which shows in the concentration and sophistication in the wines. This Ried Zöbinger Heilgenstein saw a cool fermentation in stainless steel after a settling period and after primary is finished the Riesling is racked into large, old oak casks and left in contact with the fine lees for a couple of months, allowing for purity, freshness and balance.

Bründlmayer has some of most interesting and geologically diverse terroirs in Europe, in the heart of the Kamptal, near the blue Danube and Kamp rivers. The winery notes that the wooded hills of the Waldviertel forest create a climate with large diurnal temperature swings, essential to a long growing season and resulting in perfect ripe grapes. These rocky, terraced vineyards are are uniquely larger and wider terraces, each in its own individual micro climate. The most famous vineyards in this Kamptal region are located in and above the village of Zöbing including the Ried and its subplots, which are home to fabulous Riesling vines. This small village is home to a number of Erste Lagen (Cru) vineyards, including the Ried Zöbinger Heiligenstein, which is composed of 250 million year old sandstone soils, with feldspar (volcanic) and siltstone, not too different from German’s Pfalz region that is well known for many elite dry Rieslings. Bründlmayer has 90 Hectares of vines, all farmed organic, with about 33% Grüner Veltliner, 25% Riesling, 15% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay, 17% other varieties, including a rare plot of Cabernet Franc, which is used to make an awesome red single varietal wine. While famed for Grüner and Riesling, Bründlmayer also makes some incredible sparkling, Champagne style and method wines that are mind-blowingly good and regal. There’s a lot to get excited about in Austria right now, especially in the Wachau and Kamptal area, and Bründlmayer has plenty to offer, as this Riesling proves in style.
($45 Est.) 94 Points, grapelive

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