2012 Méo-Camuzet Frere et Sœurs, Bourgogne AOC Rouge, Côte Nuits, Burgundy, France.
The Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Rouge, a favorite of mine over the years, along with the winery’s Marsannay and Fixin are wines that I have long admired and stocked up on when they were available to me and this 2012, opened recently in a tasting of some Burgundies was a bottle that I had tucked away and forgotten, it provided a wonderful surprise and a much better performance than expected. The palate, maybe past its best, was still pretty and delightful, with a color that was garnet and brick in the glass, much like a Nebbiolo at this stage, has mature hints of autumn leaves, Earl Grey, dried roses, coffee grinds and Turkish figs, showing the age, but also gave dark cherry, plum and strawberry fruits in equal measure in the silky frame. Interestingly, I had 3 bottles of this 2012 Bourgogne Rouge, and none that were opened young were as good as this one, and might just be the reason I left this last one untouched for so many years. With extra time in the glass this wine fades a bit, but was good to the last drop with some woodsy truffle, loam and sous bois coming in. The Grand Cru and Premier Cru offerings at Mèo are some of the most sought after and collectable wines in the world, like the Mèo Richebourg Grand Cru and especially the set Vosne-Romanée offerings, such as the unicorn bottling of Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Rouge Au Cros Parantoux, which collectors seriously covet.
Méo-Camuzet is one of the most celebrated domaines of the Côte d’Or, located in the heart of prestigious Vosne-Romanée. Now run by Jean-Nicolas Méo & family, Méo-Camuzet has been a fixture in Burgundy since 1902 with exceptional vineyard holdings and a historic run of great wines. The domaine owned and leased vines are all farmed organically, leading to exceptional concentration, and the wines, mostly Pinot Noirs, are known for richness, depth and power. This Bourgogne Rouge is sourced from estate vineyards in Vosne Romanée and Flagey Echézeaux, and purchased fruit from five villages mainly in the Côte de Nuits, including Marsannay, Fixin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Vosne-Romanée, and Nuits-Saint-Georges! So, even Mèo’s little Bourgogne is full of the right stuff and has always been a bargain hunter’s dream, I have until very recently always tried to get 4 or 6 bottles each vintage, along with the Marsannay and Fixin reds. The Bourgogne Rouge sees, cement vat maceration all de-stemmed and an extended elevage and is in most years aged about 17 months in barrel, mostly used, but still feels nicely luxurious, and some vintages provide mid to long term rewards, as this one proofed. Most of the Méo wines are now fully out of my reach price wise, but I can just about afford this Bourgogne still and I will have to check in with importer Kermit Lynch again and see if any of the current vintages are still available and I highly recommend you do the same, as well as checking out Mèo’s Oregon project Nicolas-Jay, which are brilliant wines too, and of which are still under the radar.
($60 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive