2020 Weingut Prieler, Blaufränkisch, Oggau Johanneshöhe, Burgenland, Austria.
The deeply garnet hued and complex 2020 Oggau Johnanneshöle Braufränkisch by Georg Prieler is an exceptional example of the varietal with lovely fruit density, texture and purity of form, showing off dark fruit, spice, mineral and floral highlights. The medium to full bodied palate is perfectly balanced with ripe concentration, subtle earthiness and energy, this Oggau Johanneshöle Blaufränkisch delivers dark currant, plum, blackberry and cherry fruit layers, along with sultry truffle, forrest floor, crushed acacia flowers, a touch of herbal and cedar notes and delicate vanilla. Still youthful overall and yet mildly tannic, there’s lots to be pleased about here and the potential to age looks very good. I recently had one of Georg Primer’s 2016 Blaufränkisch bottlings, as seen in my prior reviews, that was mature and outstanding with aged Bordeaux like finesse and depth, and I saw that Prieler himself says he pulled one of his parents 1995 out of the winery’s cellar and that it terrific, which I believe. The whole current lineup at Prieler was compelling and utterly delicious, again congratulations to Georg for such a fabulous collection, with this one being one of the most desirable, along with the set of sublime Pinot Blancs and the delightful Rosé, which I also reviewed early this Summer. If you are an Austrian wine fan and haven’t had these Prieler wines, now is a great time to explore them, they really capture the terroir and quality of the Burgenland region to stunning effect.
Winemaker Georg Prieler, as mentioned, one of my favorite Austrian producers, has done a masterful job here, with this latest set of Cru Blaufränkisch and Pinot Blanc offerings, especially his 2020 Oggau Johanneshöhe Blaufränkisch, which looks set for long term rewards to those with the patience to hold a few in the cellar. The Prieler estate, as mentioned here in my prior reviews, founded in 1972, is based in Schützen, which sits on the western side of the Lake Neusiedl, in Burgenland, it is a historic old farm, that was once dedicated to many types of agriculture, but now specializing almost solely in grape growing. Georg Prieler is a the second generation Prieler to run this iconic winery and the one that has brought world wide acclaim to this property with his fantastic terroir driven Blaufränkisch and Pinot Blanc wines. Georg’s wife Silvia brings a wealth of experience to the winery with a PhD in biochemistry, international experience including an internship at Domaine Dujac in Burgundy and a precise touch, which explains the class and finesse in the wines. The winery notes that all of the grapes are carefully crushed and fermented at closely controlled temperatures in steel tanks or wooden casks. The character of the variety and the vineyard determines how the wine will be matured and what in. For example, the Prieler’s add, the Seeberg Pinot Blanc will aged exclusively in stainless steel to maximize freshness and clarity, while the Blaufränkisch from Johanneshöhe will be raised in large oak casks, as seen here.
($30 Est.) 93 Points, grapelive